Broemel's is yet another nice choice from among a high concentration of quality routes in a small section of Sunset North (others include RJ Gold and Jefferson Airplane). The climbing is sustained and stiff for the grade, like so many other Sunset routes, but protection is plentiful.
Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.
Starts at trailside about 30' left of the Bill's Route/Jefferson Airplane/RJ Gold ledge. Look for a prominent protruding block above a left-facing dihedral/crack system.
Take a full range up to 3"; some big gear can come in handy. Ring anchors at the top.
Decatur, GA
There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.
Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it. Jul 15, 2008
Aspen
Chattanooga, TN
Pensacola, FL
Nomad
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
Contrary to what saxfiend said, I found traversing to the crack system lower to be easier. But everyone's body is different. Aug 21, 2023
Atlanta