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Broemel's Route

5.8+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 77 votes
FA: David Broemel, Steve Jones, Bill Smith - 1970s
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North > b. Bolt Pinnacle & Sp…

Description

Broemel's is yet another nice choice from among a high concentration of quality routes in a small section of Sunset North (others include RJ Gold and Jefferson Airplane). The climbing is sustained and stiff for the grade, like so many other Sunset routes, but protection is plentiful.

Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.

Location

Starts at trailside about 30' left of the Bill's Route/Jefferson Airplane/RJ Gold ledge. Look for a prominent protruding block above a left-facing dihedral/crack system.

Protection

Take a full range up to 3"; some big gear can come in handy. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting past the wide section on Broemel's!
[Hide Photo] Getting past the wide section on Broemel's!
Bromels
[Hide Photo] Bromels
Start of Broemel's
[Hide Photo] Start of Broemel's

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The rock isn't as nice as on the other nearby classics, but a challenging, fun climb nevertheless. I was wishing for my #4 Camalot in the big crack down low. Tip: traversing to the crack system too low makes it a lot more work. Aug 6, 2007
Joey Wolfe
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] a #4 does make the transition into the crack less mental.

There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.

Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it. Jul 15, 2008
Darbley Sterway
Aspen
5.8+
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. I think I actually enjoyed this one more than Stan's Crack. Jun 18, 2015
Jordan Simon
Chattanooga, TN
 
[Hide Comment] Most spots have a #4 walking back or almost tipping out unless you go really far back in the lower crack. A #5 seems more appropriate personally, if you're looking to put a big piece in there. Great climb! May 21, 2017
Alex Thompson
Pensacola, FL
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with Jordan! A #4 right before entering the corner was sloppy slop. One of the best pitches I have climbed in the southeast! Jun 16, 2018
Tim Wheatley
Nomad
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Here's a link to my ascent! youtu.be/rAbDJPpWsB4 Nov 1, 2020
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Lots of good movement on this. I think a #5 would be better than a #4.

Contrary to what saxfiend said, I found traversing to the crack system lower to be easier. But everyone's body is different. Aug 21, 2023
Emma Axelson
Atlanta
[Hide Comment] Shares anchors with Bill's Route Jul 25, 2025