Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bill Smith and Steve Jones
Page Views: 643 total · 12/month
Shared By: kyle howe on Sep 1, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

"Takes a steep crack system, then finishes up a corner a tricky exit." -DCA

Route is dirty, not climbed often, and should probably just be avoided. Guidebook says the finish is "tricky," which on lead means "do not fall here," as there is little to no protection for the last 15-20 ft of this climb and a fall here would not be pretty.

Location

15' left of Osmosis

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Jeff Wilges
Pemberton, BC
  5.7
Jeff Wilges   Pemberton, BC
  5.7
The route was dirty when I climbed it on 9/6/15, particularly so at the top out. Skipping this to instead start the day with One-Ten would have made for a more enjoyable warm-up.

The last 5 feet or so of stems through the slab that leads to the top out protect well enough using a 0.4 BD X4. The anchors are awkwardly positioned left of and below the top of the crack system. Sep 7, 2015