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Beginner's Route
5.7,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 30
votes
FA: unknown
Tennessee
> Sunset Park
> Sunset North
Description
A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.
Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.
Location
Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Route finishes at 2 bolt anchor
Protection
Standard rack, no big gear required. 2 bolt anchor
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The anchor at the top (slings with no padding around a tree) is beginning to look questionable. The tree is alive but not particularly well rooted. I recommend building an anchor, belaying up the second, and traversing right about twenty feet to another set of rings. Jun 3, 2012
Grand Junction, CO
I left a sling on the pine tree above/climbers right of the route on 6/25/18. Be warned, there is significant deadfall above this route, and the "anchor" sits below a giant patch of poison ivy. I think this route deserves a bolted anchor, there is a great spot directly above the chimney for an anchor in solid rock. Otherwise, you risk poison ivy exposure, anchoring off a sub-optimal tree, and potentially sending the hanging deadfall onto your belayer. This is a great route, just be aware of the anchor situation. Jun 26, 2018
Chattanooga, TN
Add lots of slings so your rope drag isn't so bad
Beginning section is some fun chimney climbing, I thought it was a little harder than the grade, then it's easy 5.5-5.6 to the top Apr 1, 2019
Salt Lake City