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Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo?

C2-, Aid, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Anderson and Arsenault, March 2019
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North

Description

Fun route. As far as I know, this is the first time this has been climbed. It is really a linkup of Chris Chesnutt’s Infidel Zombies and Rob Robinson’s The Toothpick. The new section is a 30 foot horizontal traverse under a roof.

Pitch 1 starts at the wide corner. Climb for 30 feet to a roof. Traverse left for 30 feet, and build an anchor in the crack that makes up the Toothpick headwall. Hanging belay.

Pitch 2 climbs The Toothpick’s laser cracks for 35 feet to the bolted anchors at the top of Stan’s Crack’s first pitch.

These two pitches could easily be linked if soloing, or if using double ropes.

Location

Towers area at Sunset. The route starts 30 feet to the right of the obvious chimney where Stan’s Crack begins. The climb begins on Infidel Zombies, the obvious left-facing corner.

Protection

Aid gear. Small cams, nuts, and ballnuts aplenty, as well as a BD grappling hook.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Multidirectional Anchor on the bottom
[Hide Photo] Multidirectional Anchor on the bottom
Linked both pitches
[Hide Photo] Linked both pitches
The Roof
[Hide Photo] The Roof
Solid Cam Hook
[Hide Photo] Solid Cam Hook
The Roof line containing many ball nut placements
[Hide Photo] The Roof line containing many ball nut placements
Rap from the rings at the top of the ledge.
[Hide Photo] Rap from the rings at the top of the ledge.
First pitch anchor in the thin crack of The Toothpick.
[Hide Photo] First pitch anchor in the thin crack of The Toothpick.
Rope fixed to first pitch anchor.
[Hide Photo] Rope fixed to first pitch anchor.
Traverse left under the upper roof.
[Hide Photo] Traverse left under the upper roof.
Infidel Zombie corner marks the start of the route.
[Hide Photo] Infidel Zombie corner marks the start of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Manderson198
Chattanooga, TN
  C2-
[Hide Comment] Name comes from my dog Jessup being gone most of the day, whereas Adam's dog Bugaboo hung around while we climbed. Jessup miraculously showed up at the end of the day, almost like he planned it that way... Mar 17, 2019