[Hide Comment] This is a great route! The fact that it has 2 pitches (although the 2nd is quite short) makes for a unique experience at Sunset. The exit up the face left of the off-width is also a great finish at about 10a. The gear (sm. to med. wires/cams) is not obvious from the belay, but it opens up as you go. Fantastic... May 15, 2007

[Hide Comment] Fun Sustained Route. If using the Ring anchors above the 5.11 to the right, it seemed best to belay from above. we did not, however and a well placed directional limited rope drag. still in hind site would have belayed my partner form above. Jul 22, 2008

[Hide Comment] Great climb, but the rating is a sandbag as far as I'm concerned. Pretty much never lets up til you're near the top of the first pitch. Jul 26, 2008

[Hide Comment] Probably the best 8 at sunset with perfect cadillac smooth jamming and gear a go-go. I think you could throw cams at the route and they would be bomber! There are anchors off to the right at two thirds height, but if you have a 3.5 and or a 4 BD then continue straight up the crack for the more natural line. Large hands will keep the grade moderate, but my small handed wife stems it at about 9+ Sep 25, 2008

[Hide Comment] Tons of handjams, steming, and gear. Great router for 5.8 leader. May 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] Fun climb with some good jams, but I think it may be a little bit harder than a 5.8+ . Definitely worth doing but I would recommend being a solid 5.9 leader to take on this climb. Jun 18, 2015

[Hide Comment] If you want to do it in one pitch, safe some big gear for the top. I needed the #2 and #3 cams back from the first pitch, so I had to do it in 2. Great belay ledge if you're going to do it in 2. Aug 1, 2017

[Hide Comment] Looked up at the direct finish to Stan's Crack this weekend to see a white X chalked on a block near the top of the offwidth. Attributed it to pusillanimous gumbies, but upon arrival it seems the block really is starting to loosen. Still feels relatively well attached, but a clear fissure exists along the top edge. It moves up and down slightly if thumped hard.

It's feasible to climb past the block without using it. I definitely wouldn't place gear behind it. It's coming down one of these days. Jun 22, 2020

[Hide Comment] Chuck Parks I'm the one who put that White X on the block and I'm far from a, what you call, pusillanimous gumbie. Maybe before spraying your self appointed climbing superiority all over mountain project you focus on rating the climb and not putting down others. Also try to consider the fact that the block you mentioned hovers over a multi-use bath on one of the most popular areas in Chat. So pulling a rock off on someone's dog, child, etc. is just the kind of thing that gets climbing area closed around the country. While you're correct it can be climbed around and I did and always do. However for those new climbers who want to jump on a Sunset Classic, this block presents and opportunity for a mistake and bigger problems. So stick to rating the climb because you never know who you're putting down. Aug 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] There's a lot of variability of grades people throw out for this. If you're like me (exactly average-sized male, 5'9", average dude-sized fists) and you have good crack technique, the low crux is probably a true 5.8, maybe hard 5.8. If not, the low part probably will feel harder than the 5.9+ direct finish (which seems soft compared to below). High quality, not quite as sustained as you'd think from the bottom. I'd recommend doing it through the direct finish in a single pitch if your rope is long enough. Nov 11, 2020

[Hide Comment] at barely 5'5" with small hands and a short reach I found the distinct crux of the route to be about halfway up p1, smearing feet with a loose hand jam going up to a lip, and that one move felt more like 5.10a to me. However it protects perfectly with a bd #1 or 2, and the fall looked like it would have been clean. Before that point it's a 5.8 crack and after that it was more or less a jug haul. Feb 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] I disagree with Darbley: don't worry about getting on this even if it's at a very challenging grade for you: just bring a bunch of #1 and #2 cams and the gear is so good you have nothing to worry about. It's a really aesthetic climb and it would be a joy to push grades on.

It's definitely a bit hand size dependent, but the differences aren't huge. I have pretty small hands, and was able to find good hand jams everywhere I needed them. It's maybe a bit stiff for the grade but in comparison with other Sunset climbs around this grade, it's less sandbagged than most.

The only thing keeping me from giving this a full 4 stars is the anchor placement. The anchors on the right are badly located. They aren't above the route which is understandable because it's above a 5.11, but they're also at knee height and there isn't a good reason for that. The rope drag this causes is annoying and you can't easily clean it without sending up a follower. Aug 26, 2023