Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Forrest Gardner 1980
Page Views: 2,276 total · 16/month
Shared By: 426 on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Climb a steep face to a right-arching shallow corner. Follow the arch to its end, then move right to more thin face climbing and fire for the top. Very fun!

Location

Scramble up to the Celebrity Flake ledge and look for thin crack systems leading to an obvious right-leaning corner; starts about 10' right of Walk in the Park.

Protection

Standard "Sunset" rack...heavy on the thin stuff. A small arsenal of Aliens does the job great. Shares bolted anchors with Walk in the Park.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
This is an excellent route, well deserving of the three stars in the Dixie Cragger. Thin and balancy in places, but it's all there when you really need it. Jul 5, 2008
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.9+
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.9+
don't forget to place some gear on the jug haul to the top, as you will find there is one move left. May 27, 2010
highneed
  5.10a
highneed  
  5.10a
Excellent route, cool moves, several distinct sections, textbook perfect gear. This one should be on everyone's list. Aug 20, 2012
Gable Jackson
Dahlonega, Georgia
Gable Jackson   Dahlonega, Georgia
Fun route. a couple of notes though. There is good gear to be had but it ends at the finger crack. The rest of the route felt like sustained 9+/10a face with no gear to speak of so be prepared for that. Also, as you near the top I believe there is a giant flake that seems like the answer to your prayers, it is not! It's rotten rock and is very flexy so take care not to pull it off the wall onto your belayer. May 9, 2015