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Routes in Estrellita

Beat Around the Bush T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Sweep S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dom's Day Out T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Estrellita T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, Alpine, 95 ft
FA: First known lead, Blake Green, May 2016
Page Views: 212 total · 11/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Jun 2, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Dom's Day Out climbs the techy slab face between Estrellita and Beat Around the Bush. The start is somewhat contrived, avoiding the prominent jug and crack features on the adjacent routes--hence only 3 stars. At about the 30/40 foot mark, the climbing becomes more intricate and stays unique from the other climbs until joining the top of Estrellita after it turns the corner up high. Technical side pulls and high steps abound, along with crafty gear placements at just close enough intervals to keep the whole outing sane (and exciting! )

This route has likely been toproped before, but I discussed it with Bryan Pletta and we felt it had likely not been lead. If anyone knows of a prior lead ascent, I would gladly update the info.

Location

Start between the two existing routes on the wall, charge straight up the face into slab oblivion.

Protection

Micro brass, doubles in 00 thru 1 metolius, a couple pieces for the top of Estrellita.

Photos

Oh yea, for sure no bolts. The fact that it protects with its own specific, creative gear is what justifies leading it in the first place despite being squeezed in there a bit. Aug 14, 2016
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Nice - folks will know whether it goes and at what grade.

Only suggestion is to not add any bolts - I'm afraid it would change the character of Estrellita and/or Beat Around the Bush as they are so close. Aug 14, 2016