Sandia Mountains Rock Climbing

One might want to check out the download from Sharp End Publishing. It shows the introduction to Mick Schein's "Sandia Rock" (2003)

www.sharpendbooks.com/pdfs/sandia.pdf Apr 29, 2006

I just recently got a copy of the Jackon Guide to New Mexico Climbing. I have climbed Tooth Or Consequences in the Organs (really enjoyed it!), but I am embarrassed to say I have never been to the Sandias...they look amazing. Long Adventure routes on quality rock and generally well protected with year round access and weather...or is that a neophyte's misconception? I'd love to go there, but first get the skinny from locals. It seems odd that NM doesn't seem to get the publicity that Utah or Colorado climbs do for "intermountain west", but, anyway.... are the bolts on the long routes being replaced by new and improved 21st century quality beef? Specifically, I am keen to do some of the long routes on the Shield.
thanks.... Jan 28, 2007

"quality rock and generally well protected "

That's hilarious! You made my day! Jan 30, 2007

Anyone made the journey to the Windward Wall? looks sweet in the guidebook, but perhaps a bit difficult to find.

How about the Watchtower? Apr 19, 2007

The approach for science friction/windward walls aren't too bad. Approach via the crest, from the La Luz junction (Echo canyon meets upper La Cueva canyon) hike/scramble west sticking to the ridge line. There is a rap station (somewhat hidden) facing SW. Thus these crags get pretty good sun-exposure. If you pass the rap station no worries you cant continue too much further the line ends. The first rap gets you to the base of the upper tier crag. A second station after a scramble north gets you to the base of the lower tier. Apr 20, 2007

What does a Sandia rack consist of? Oct 8, 2007

My standard rack for anything in the Sandia's typically consists of doubles (camalots) from 0.3 to #2 with one #3, a few smaller cams (C3s), a full set of nuts, and 10 slings. Slings are important because so many routes wander, though you could probably get away with less than ten on most routes with some quick draws (I don't have to extend all of them but I do end up slinging most of my pieces). If the route description ever recommends bringing any pieces larger, I typically do.

Hope that is helpful. Oct 8, 2007

Does anyone have beta for a supposed tyrolean traverse. Between the cake and the candle? Dec 4, 2007

Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks! Feb 22, 2008

I haven't been up there this season, but I can see a lot of snow up there from my house. In fact, we got another ~1/2 an inch Wednesday night (at my house). I would guess the approach to any of those 3 routes would be pretty heinous, but the rock would be relatively snow free. Feb 22, 2008

An older but enjoyable read about the Sandias by local climber Josh Smith is online at Climbing Aug 13, 2008

Does anyone know of any chimney pitches? Oct 24, 2008

The only thing I've been on in the Sandias that is close is P6 on Excitable Boys and it really isn't much at all. Long way to go for it. Granted, I haven't climbed much in the Sandias and generally avoid OW and chimneys.
If you're looking for some serious grunting in Northern NM, Airbus would likely be right up your alley. :-) Oct 24, 2008

Mike Roybal... what do you think the aid on the south face of the chimney goes at? I hiked up to the base and thought it looked really really thin. Any idea? Also does anyone know what the brand new bolt about a pitch up the west face of the chimney is for, tried to lead past it but it was caked in lichen. Oct 26, 2008

In answer to Steve's inquiry about the new bolt on the west face of the Chimney; The route is called Smoke on the Horizon II 5.11b. I climbed the route for the first time in 02 or 03 without the bolt and didn't climb it clean then. I went back with Allen Aiken in the summer of 04 and put in the bolt and tried to clean the route up a little but it struck me as too scruffy to become something many people would want to do, but it has been freed cleanly. I never got around to telling many people about it or posting it. If some one put in some anchors at the summit and rapped in and cleaned the line it would turn out to be a decent 2-3 pitch route on the Chimney. I just haven't gotten back to it as yet. Nov 4, 2008

Steve; As for the South face of the chimney the aid consisted of RURPS, tied off knife blades an very small wired chocks and the old copper mashies. above the overhang it goes all free (A3, A4)

As for chimney routes hoys Chimney on the west side of the needle is about the longest chimney route in the Sandias. It ends up on the Southwest ridge right before you get to the fifth avenue level. It's not very hard but pretty fun. Dec 9, 2008

FYI, Mick Shein's Sandia Rock guidebook has been updated with a 2013 edition. May 8, 2013

Anyone know what the conditions are like right now? Weather looks good for next week and kind of want to make the trip down. Feb 28, 2014

I would like to add something to complement the approach 'overview' given. Specifically the part that reads: "It's not difficult to get lost in this area".

While I wholeheartedly agree that it is indeed hard to find ones way to particular walls and objectives (especially once within tree cover in higher elevations). It is 100% absolutely completely and utterly impossible to become truly lost on the west side of the Sandias. I mean lost in the sense of "which direction is my car?" or "where is civilization?". Its possible to lose your way to the trail or become cliffed out (at higher elevations) but youll always have an idea of the 'big picture' regarding navigation.

On another note, I love this area. I spent my entire childhood boulder hopping and scrambling around the lowlands and spent many days in my teen years on the bigger objectives at higher elevations. The knife edge, pulpit, and the needle are not to be missed. Mar 16, 2015

To CHIEF Clark Grey... I'm responding about your 2008 comment of "Hoy's Chimney"; I believe there are a couple of others!!!
I have soloed the West Face of the Needle way back in the 1970-s and found "Hoy's Chimney" to be a nightmare of loose rubble :op
Since then, yours and my friends have put up a few good chimney routes such as "Smorgasborg" (sp?) on the Shield and "ChockStone Chimney" on Hail Peak. They may not be considered as 'long' , but the quality of the rock and the climbs themselves are much better than HOY'S Chimney. I can still remember my solo descent down that "gully" ; and Jim Fuge's and my rappels during a lighting storm after an overnight ascent of the SW Ridge ( w Lighting! ).
Thank God for those little trees :o)
Good to hear from you my Dear Friend,,, even if I'm a bit late finding all of you in this cyber world :op Jun 14, 2015

Looking for some guidance, wondering what the bolting policy is in the Sandias. I know you can't use motorized drills and can't seem to find any guidance on new bolds in the Sandias. Short of getting an answer here I'll have to call the rangers but my work schedule doesn't always allow.
Many thanks, Steve Aug 26, 2015

New Mexico Climber’s Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG) Route Development Guidelines

NM CRAG advocates and encourages climbers to abide by the following fixed anchor guidelines when establishing new routes in the Sandia Mountain Wilderness:

NM CRAG acknowledges and supports the existing laws that ban the use of motorized drills in Wilderness.

Minimize your impact by staying on existing trails when possible; do not build new trails without Forest Service approval.

New climbing routes requiring fixed anchors should be evaluated based on:

Rock quality, aesthetic position, environmental impact, natural terrain features, potential appeal to present and future climbers, the effect on other user groups, and the number of existing routes in the vicinity.

Ask yourself and others if your potential route is a worthy addition to the area before adding fixed anchors.

New routes requiring fixed anchors should not crowd existing climbs. Fixed anchors should not be used when reliable options for removable protection exist.

Fixed protection may be appropriate to prevent the risk of ground fall, hitting dangerous obstacles or factor two falls. Climbers should bear the responsibility for determining when to place safety anchors and how to use these tools.

Fixed anchors may be appropriate when used for rappel stations to reduce excessive trails and damage to fragile cliff-top environments. All fixed protection should be camouflaged to blend in with natural terrain.

Bolt intensive climbs are not appropriate in Wilderness. Sections of fixed protection may be required to link natural features containing possibilities for protection with removable gear. Aug 27, 2015

I am looking for some general guidance on approach times. Would someone mind giving an approximate approach time to some of the formations or routes to give me a ballpark figure on planning? Also, what are conditions generally like in early april? Thanks! Jan 12, 2016

RE: approach times in the Sandias.
Approaches are usually 30 min- 1hr, if you don't get lost. (Except for the Needle and the Shield- those are more like 1.5hrs- 2 hrs, if you don't get lost.)
Early April is typically a bit early in the season. (edit 4/2016) But this year, it ought to be ok, I've climbed in the Sandias a couple of times already this year. Jan 13, 2016

I agree with Gary, Hoys Chimney on the needle is filled with a lot of loose crap. Glad to see there are other chimney routes in the Sandias. I've herd rumors of another chimney route on the southeast side of the Thumb that has only been done in winter, but don't know for sure. Jul 12, 2018

So I'm thinking of going climbing up in the Sandias in like mid-January. Would anybody recommend that, or stick to the box or maybe las conchas? Dec 7, 2018

Hey Clark,,, I was just checking out some recent posts here yesterday and noticed yours. I grabbed my old Chouinard catalog (purchased at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, November 24th, 1973) which contains some information of some of my early climbs in the Sandias,,, one of which mentions a CHIMNEY climb on the little cliff by the 2nd tower of the tram. It reads:

May 5th, '74 Steve Jones and i camped near the 2nd tower of the Tramway after a full-moon hike. A windy night and following day. However = we were able to do a 1st ascent on the 'South Buttress'. "Super Squeeze" I, 5.6 or 5.7.
A chimney problem (5.6) with a 5.7 face climb start.

It's a long hike to get to this little cliff, but as I recall the rock is pretty good and there are a number of cracks, some which I came back and climbed,,, probably in the 5.7/5.8 range.

Another entry in the catalog reads:

May 11th, 74 Jim Fuge & i did 2 first ascents on 'South Buttress'... "Gully of the Bulge" I,5.5 & "Second Choice" I,5.6 ,,, windy day.

In 1973 I had moved to Boulder to find people to climb with and moved back to Albuquerque in early 1974 with a new appreciation for the Sandia Mountains. The 1st entry in my Chouinard catalog ($1),,, on page 2,,, reads:

Wensday/March 13th, 1974

Went to White Rock, New Mexico today with Clark Grey & Mike Roybal and Mike's woman, Virginia. Mike was burning up the rocks, Clark was all burnt out from instructing yesterday. Virginia was pushing harder than me = but climbing just as high before peeling off. It was only her third time out!!!

There's a lot of other interesting entries in this catalog, including the one of the 1st ascent of Gemstone on June 8th 74 where it states I started up the 1st pitch of Gemstone at 6:45 pm and we finished the climb at 11:oo pm. That is probably when we reached the end of pitch FOUR,,, as the last two pitches were done in the dark and we climbed to the ridge above Gemstone and hiked down the ridge to the parking lot. =^..^= Jan 13, 2019