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Elevation: 10,650 ft 3,246 m
GPS: 35.2106, -106.44996
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 783,037 total · 3,215/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

The Sandia Mountains top out at 10,650ft and most of the climbs involve a drive to the top of the mountain and a hike down to your climb. This means a hike up/out at the end of the day. 

The mountain is comprised of roughly 1.5 billion year old granite with a 300 million year old limestone band on top.

Because of longer approaches to the climbing areas, you'll typically find solitude while climbing in the Sandias. Due to high elevation and the alpine nature of these mountains, weather conditions are always changing. While one can climb any time of the year (there is snow all winter through May at the top), Sandia season seems to be May through October. West and Southwest facing walls, such as Muralla Grande, can be warm and dry even on winter days. Lots of the west facing formations get sun starting about 11:30am in the summer.

IMPORTANT: Watch for thunderstorms during the summer months and make sure you always have warm and rain layers. Temperatures and weather can change very quickly on the mountain and the granite becomes slippery when wet.

Getting There Suggest change

The majority of the climbs are accessed from the top of the mountain (aka the Sandia Crest) via a road that travels up the east side. Some routes are approached from the bottom of the mountain (aka the foothills of Albuquerque) and these directions will be give in the appropriate sections.

Driving directions to the top of the mountain:

  • Starting from Albuquerque, take I-40 east through Tijeras Canyon, exiting on the Tijeras exit (exit 175).
  • North on highway 14 for 6.8 miles
  • Turn left on NM 536 (follow signs to Sandia Mountain Ski area), and follow this road for about 14 miles, past the ski area, and finally to the Sandia Crest.

About getting to the different climbing areas:

  • Approach times and difficulties vary depending on where you are going. Directions will be given in the appropriate sections.
  • WARNING: Approaches can be DIFFICULT, as in both strenuous and difficult to find. It's common to get lost in the Sandia. Should anyone following directions posted on Mountain Project end up lost, please edit the routes/area's directions in order to make them more accurate is appreciated.

*** Reporting Bad Hardware In The Sandia Mountians

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The best way to report bad hardware (anchors or protection) is to post a comment on the route page here on MountainProject.com. When reporting your issue, please provide as much detail as possible.

Additionally, you can send a direct message with photos/video to one of the Mountain project NM Admins who will work to coordinate with active climbing stewards in New Mexico.

                

Sandia Wilderness Route Development Guidelines

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New Mexico Climber's Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG) Route Development Guidelines

NM CRAG advocates and encourages climbers to abide by the following fixed anchor guidelines when establishing new routes in the Sandia Mountain Wilderness:

  • NM CRAG acknowledges and supports the existing laws that ban the use of motorized drills in Wilderness.
  • Minimize your impact by staying on existing trails when possible; do not build new trails without Forest Service approval.

New climbing routes requiring fixed anchors should be evaluated based on:

  • Rock quality, aesthetic position, environmental impact, natural terrain features, potential appeal to present and future climbers, the effect on other user groups, and the number of existing routes in the vicinity.
  • Ask yourself and others if your potential route is a worthy addition to the area before adding fixed anchors.
  • New routes requiring fixed anchors should not crowd existing climbs. Fixed anchors should not be used when reliable options for removable protection exist.
  • Fixed protection may be appropriate to prevent the risk of ground fall, hitting dangerous obstacles or factor two falls. Climbers should bear the responsibility for determining when to place safety anchors and how to use these tools.
  • Fixed anchors may be appropriate when used for rappel stations to reduce excessive trails and damage to fragile cliff-top environments. All fixed protection should be camouflaged to blend in with natural terrain.
  • Bolt intensive climbs are not appropriate in Wilderness. Sections of fixed protection may be required to link natural features containing possibilities for protection with removable gear.        

Guide Books

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338 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Sandia Mountains Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sandia Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 134
Knife Edge Ridge
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 157
Estrellita
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 168
The Second Coming
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 70
Warpy Moople
Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 73
Aviary Ort Overhangs
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 65
Estrellada (a.k.a. Mountain Momma)
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 73
Great Escape
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
Rage Against the Dying Fire
Trad 9 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 43
Skinwalker
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 34
Rawhide
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Little Yellow Jacket
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 42
License and a Visa
Sport 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Autumn Ivy
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 18
Cat Daddy
Trad
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 5
Event Horizon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Knife Edge Ridge Juan Tabo Canyon > Shield
 134
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad
Estrellita La Cueva Canyon… > Estrellita
 157
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Second Coming Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande
 168
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Warpy Moople Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Aviary Ort Overhangs La Cueva Canyon… > Thumb
 73
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Estrellada (a.k.a. Mountain… La Cueva Canyon… > Torreon
 65
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Great Escape Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower
 73
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Rage Against the Dying Fire Juan Tabo Canyon > Shield
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 9 pitches
Skinwalker Chimney Canyon > Clandestine Wall
 43
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Rawhide Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower
 34
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Little Yellow Jacket Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
License and a Visa Pino Wall & Jaw… > Pino Wall
 42
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport 4 pitches
Autumn Ivy Chimney Canyon > Clandestine Wall
 25
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Cat Daddy Chimney Canyon > Clandestine Wall
 18
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
Event Horizon Chimney Canyon > Clandestine Wall
 5
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sandia Mountains »

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