Elevation: 10,650 ft
GPS: 35.211, -106.45 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 573,247 total · 3,116/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

Because of the approaches to the climbing areas here, you will typically find solitude while climbing in the Sandias. Due to high elevation and nature of these mountains, conditions can vary. While one can climb at any time of the year, the best time seems to be between May through October. West and Southwest facing walls, such as Muralla Grande, can be warm and dry even on winter days. Watch for thunderstorms during the summer months.

Getting There

The majority of the climbs are accessed from the Sandia Crest, though some are approached from the foothills of Albuquerque (these directions will be give in the appropriate sections):

- Starting from Albuquerque, take I-40 east through Tijeras Canyon, exiting on the Tijeras exit (exit 175).
- North on highway 14 for 6.8 miles
- Turn left on NM 536 (follow signs to Sandia Mountain Ski area), and follow this road for about 14 miles, past the ski area, and finally to the Sandia Crest.

Getting to the different climbing areas:

Approach times and difficulties vary depending on where you are going. Directions will be given in the appropriate sections.

WARNING: Approaches can be DIFFICULT, as in both strenuous and difficult to find. It's not difficult to get lost in this area. Should anyone following directions posted on Mountain Project end up lost, feedback on the directions in order to make them more accurate is appreciated.

Resources:

- Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2013, Sharp End Publishing)
- Rock Climbing New Mexico by Dennis R. Jackson (2006, Falcon Press)
- Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias by Mike Hill (1993, Coyote Books)

295 Total Climbs

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Location: Sandia Mountains Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sandia Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 92
Knife Edge
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 90
Flake n' Bake
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 87
Northwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 44
Beat Around the Bush
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Estrellita
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
The Second Coming
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 66
Crackula
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 66
Miss Piggy
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Aviary Ort Overhangs
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 49
Warpy Moople
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Bush Shark Spire
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 78
Excitable Boys
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Yucca Flower Tower
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Mountain Momma
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
Great Escape
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Knife Edge Juan Tabo Canyon > Shield
 92
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Flake n' Bake La Cueva Canyon… > Flake n' Bake
 90
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Northwest Ridge La Cueva Canyon… > Thumb
 87
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Beat Around the Bush La Cueva Canyon… > Estrellita
 44
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, Alpine
Estrellita La Cueva Canyon… > Estrellita
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
The Second Coming Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Crackula Echo Canyon > Techweeny Buttress
 66
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Miss Piggy La Cueva Canyon… > Hole in the Wall
 66
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Aviary Ort Overhangs La Cueva Canyon… > Thumb
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Warpy Moople Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Bush Shark Spire Echo Canyon > Bush Shark Area
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Excitable Boys Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande
 78
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Yucca Flower Tower Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Mountain Momma La Cueva Canyon… > Torreon
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Great Escape Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Sandia Mountains »

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