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Late Breaking News V10 7C+
Lee Faria V11-12 8A+
V3, The V3 6A
V6, The V6 7A
V8, The V8 7B
Warm Up Wall V1 5
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Shared By: claude. on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

A small limestone bouldering area just north of Sandia Crest, consisting of perhaps the best quality limestone in the ABQ area. A great summer alternative to Big Block/The Temple/The Woodie due to it's shade and cool temps, not to mention it's not a dug out cave covered in glue and the problems actually top out. Keep in mind the area is small, although there is still some potential for new problems. Grade range is V1-V12 or enough to keep everyone busy for at least an afternoon. Definitely worth a visit.

Getting There

Drive towards Sandia Crest, just before you reach the parking lot for the Crest, park on the left side in a pull-out (I believe it's same approach for Clandestine Wall) cross the road and continue up the obvious trail until it joins the Crest Trail. Continue for about 5 minutes or until you reach a fork just in front of a sign for North Crest Trail. Make a hard left and head directly down the steep hillside on the obvious trail. Continue for 50 yards or so until a small cliff band comes into view on the right. Continue down until you reach the base and continue walking along it's base. The rock quality drastically improves the further north you go. Eventually you will see a fixed rope hanging from one of the walls - this is the "down climb" (although I wouldn't use it as such, it's been there for years and most likely not in the best shape) Continue exploring a bit further to reach the best wall/problems

6 Total Climbs

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A line, William, seriously, a big bold line ?
No, it has to be a bunch of yellow hands.
Isn't that the accepted cutoff standard of the area ?

Seriously, if someone can't look at a high ball and have a clue about getting hurt and the ability to judge when to back down, then perhaps a bit of natural selection coming into play isn't a bad thing.

Considering some of the sports' epic crawls (Ogre anyone), I would hope you could get back to the parking lot without a major rescue effort from a sprain or even a moderate break. Nov 29, 2011
AWinters   NH  
So highballs should not be posted on this website? wtf? If you put an 'R' or an 'X' after the rating isn't that warning enough that yeah, this could be dangerous. That and of course actually looking at how high it is might be a clue. Nov 14, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
imagine this senario: joe 16 year old, super rad v8 gym crusher hikes v6 at the gym. Therefore he sees v6 'moderate' at this area and rolls up with his girlfriend with their pad that works fine at bigblock and umound. He eventually sends the lower section of the v6, at starts sketching on the v4 moss and stick covered topout. He isn't used topping out in this style, so he tweaks out, falls, breaks his leg. Now they have to get up the steep, wooded hill and to their car.

The solutions are simple.

1. Paint a line at 12' that says "no climbing above this point."
2. Glue over all holds up to that line, thereby creating rad testpieces and eliminating moderates.
3. If these solutions fail, offer to loan out your big pads and give a spot. Sep 27, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
This was an existing area for short top-ropes on ice climbs in the winter long before the "developer" of summertime bouldering got there.

This bouldering area is unique for its location, but I am not sure what might make it any more sensitive than other areas in the upper Sandias. As Eric said, enlighten.



Sep 26, 2011
What makes the area sensitive? Who "needs to know?" about any crag? Please enlighten. Sep 26, 2011

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