Avg: 3.5 from 45 votes
Routes in Muralla Grande
|Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X|
|Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Out to Lunch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mike Roybal, Peter Prandoni, 1975|
|Page Views:||9,647 total, 73/month|
|Shared By:||Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionA long time classic in the Sandias offering some of the cleanest crack and face climbing in the area. Also a great test of route finding skills.
P1: (5.7) Begin climbing dihedral, at the end of the dihedral move left through easier ground up to a dirt ledge with many large blocks.
P2: (5.9) Move slightly right and climb an arching roof. Turn the roof and angle right to a small sloping ledge under a small roof.
P3: (5.7) Traverse out right below the small roof. Begin angling right towards the corner of the huge roof in the center of the Muralla Grande. A belay can be set here or run together with P4 using a 60m rope.
P4: (5.8) Climb the beautiful dihedral passing the huge roof on the right, ending at a 2-bolt anchor below a bulge on a small ledge.
P5: (5.9 R) A long traverse out left to the end of the ledge. Place gear here to protect your second. Next climb a small right-trending crack. You eventually meet up with the finger tip crack above your belay, however had this point it has widened out allowing for a much needed piece of gear. Follow the crack a bit further, then angle out right onto the face, ending at a sloping ledge with a bolted belay.
P6: (5.8) Face climb past a piton, tend right to a short offwidth section, continuing to a fun dihedral. End on a grassy sloping ledge.
P7: (5.6) Easy but loose climbing in either chimney system above.