All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountain… > Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande

Warpy Moople

Name: Warpy Moople
Rating: 3.5

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Muralla Grande

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bark At The Moon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
	Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Out to Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Second Rapture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

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Type:	Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	35.2152, -106.455
FA:	Mike Roybal, Peter Prandoni, 1975
Page Views:	16,029 total · 68/month
Shared By:	Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: SANDIA CREST CLOSURE ALERT - Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains is under a closure order. Details

Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains will be under a closure order so the Forest Service can complete two different projects. The first project is an extensive "fuel reduction project" and the second is the demolition/remodeling of the whole upper parking lot and crest house. The Crest Road and all parking areas above the 10k parking lot will be closed in addition to the 140 acres of forest that will be under going the fuel reduction work. The closure will be enforced from April 30, 2026, at 6 a.m. through January 15, 2027, at 6 a.m., unless rescinded. You can find the official area closure order 03-03-05-26-02 on the forest website, where it describes the parking areas and trails that the agency will close at: fs.usda.gov/r03/cibola/alerts. For more information visit fs.usda.gov/r03/cibola/news… or contact the Sandia Ranger District Office at 505-281-3304.

Description

A long time classic in the Sandias offering some of the cleanest crack and face climbing in the area. Also a great test of route finding skills.

P1: (5.7) Scramble up to just left of a pine tree 15' up the cliff. Climb a shallow right facing corner, at its top move left. Then back a touch right, then left, then right again below a lichen covered prow. Move left through easier ground up to a dirt ledge with many large blocks.

P2: (5.9) Move slightly right and climb an arching roof. Turn the roof and angle right to a small sloping ledge under a small roof.

P3: (5.7) Traverse out right below the small roof. Begin angling right towards the corner of the huge roof in the center of the Muralla Grande. A belay can be set here or run together with P4 using a 60m rope.

P4: (5.8+) Climb the beautiful dihedral passing the huge roof on the right, ending at a 2-bolt anchor below a bulge on a small ledge.

P5: (5.9 R) A long traverse out left to the end of the ledge. Place gear here to protect your second. Next climb a small right-trending crack. You eventually meet up with the finger tip crack above your belay, however had this point it has widened out allowing for a much needed piece of gear. Follow the crack a bit further, then angle out right onto the face, ending at a sloping ledge with a bolted belay.

P6: (5.8+) Face climb past a piton, trend right to arrive at a short offwidth section. End on a sloping ledge below a short chimney corner with a gear anchor.

P7: (5.8) Stem up the corner and pass a small tree. Continue up to the top of the cliff on looser rock via either chimney (left or right of the pillar) and belay off a tree.

Location

The route starts under the large roof in the center of the Muralla Grande, begin climbing in a dihedral. The undercling roof of pitch-2 can barely be seen from the ground.