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Routes in Muralla Grande

Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out to Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: ?? First Recorded Ascent (FRA): Alam, Wheeler and associated pieces
Page Views: 187 total · 4/month
Shared By: Alam on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

Three pitch variation to “Excitable Boys” off of the football ledge. This climb can also be used as a variation to Clarks Cramps and an extension of “Short and Thin” (see original Hills book). We use this variation almost routinely as our final 3 pitches to get off of Muralla Grande.

Pitch 1(5.9): From football ledge. Climb straight towards Royball’s chimney as per the standard EWarpy route. About 30-40 feet below the chimney, climb and traverse right towards a ledge and a left facing dihedral with a water groove to the left of it. The rock here is very(!) clean and solid. Climb this short left facing dihedral (15 feet) to a ledge with several large blocks on it. Traverse/step left off the ledge of thin balance face holds, and continue up on good rock. About 25 feet above the ledge there are couple of slots that will accept the 1/2 and ¾ inch Camelot. [Historic Note – if you traverse hard left here for 20 feet you are on back on Warpy and have avoided the chimney – this is the “Short and Thin” variation]. Instead continue straight up from these Camelots, with clean solid face climbing moves for 60 feet. The gear is adequate, but can be overlooked. There is a slot for a small nut about 30 feet later in an easily over looked slot (makes it PG). Continue until you hit a 1 foot wide ledge that cuts across this route as well as the Warpy line. Set up a belay under a small left facing roof which is capped by a larger left facing roof. As of 6/2014 there is a fixed nut marking this belay station. [You can escape back to Warpy by traversing on this ledge 25 feet to your left. If you want….]

Pitch 2 (5.9): Traverse a short section right on this 1 foot ledge, and then face climb up poorly protected face 15 feet to gain access to this right leaning crack. Follow hand crack for about 100 feet. If it feels like the crack keeps wanting to “spit you out to the right”, you are in the right place. This is 100 feet of hand jamming, with very few usable face holds. The crack accepts lots of good gear. This crack then links up with a chimney, which is easily climbed by stemming on the outside for about 40 more feet. Your ultimate target is an alcove. Originally we belayed in the alcove, but have found that if you stretch the rope and climb out the left side of the alcove you can set a nice belay in a 2 “ crack just outside the alcove.

Pitch 3(5.8): Climb up and to the left angling for the top of Warpy – 160 feet. Easy climbing, but need to concentrate on gear and finding the cleanest and best line. Belay at the top and you are done.

Location

Variation - starts from football ledge.

Protection

All natural pro - everything from small TCU's to large #4 camelots. The hand crack pitch uses lots of mid range camelots and nuts.

All belays are your natural pro.

Photos

John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+
This is a great headwall variation. The climbing is awesome and continuous. We climbed directly up to the belay under the above mentioned roof where the fixed nut is. On the second pitch I traversed left before the alcove at the top of the chimney. There was a good belay ledge there. From here we went more or less straight up maybe slightly left trending. The rock was good throughout and this seems to me the highest quality option for topping out on this section of the wall.
I'm wondering if this variation is an old route from the Mike Hill guidebook. If I remember right it might have been called After Lunch. Aug 25, 2014

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