Type: Trad, Alpine, 580 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Kear and Alan Aiken Summer 2005
Page Views: 5,395 total · 40/month
Shared By: John Kear on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details


Pitch 1 - Start on a steep red blunt arete, climb straight up through a bulge and exit left on to a steep slab. Climb up past bolts past a horizontal break, continue up a corner and exit right to easier climbing and the belay, 110ft (5.11-)

Pitch 2 - Move up and left staying out of the corner on clean face climbing to gain a pin. Aim for a short left-facing corner, climb the corner and exit right to a ledge, a few more moves up and left gains the belay. 115ft (5.10a)

Pitch 3 - Straight up corner 40ft, mantel up and left, trend up and left on perfect stone past a bolt and piton to the belay, 115ft (5.10+/5.11-)

Pitch 4 - Traverse left off of the belay to an open book, climb up and exit right to corner and crack system, eventually under clinging out right and up to the belay ledge, 120ft (5.10c)

Pitch 5 - Climb up and left to a small ledge clip the bolt and do a delicate traverse left (crux) into a gully. Climb good rock on the right wall of the gully to another ledge. Climb the pillar directly above the ledge via a thin crack that leads to a wild block/flake, climb directly over this to the summit. LYJ does not stay in the left hand gully. 140ft (5.11a)


Located about 100ft down and around the corner to the northwest of the start of Second Coming. Walk off the top.


Standard Sandia Rack (single set of cams and nuts to 2" or 3", it is nice to have doubles in the .5 to 1.5 inch range) All the anchors except the top have one bolt with gear options. All pitches have some fixed gear.
Amy Jordan  
Great, great route. The rock is super clean and the cruxes are very interesting and fun. Dec 1, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11a R
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.11a R
Although John recommends a light, single set, we took a double set of the small to medium gear (C3s to #1 Camelot). We were happy we did (I can be a bit of a ninny when it comes to run outs! I like to see gear below me.)! My partner described this route as "warpy moople on steroids". He was referring to a few heady run out sections on the faces that are certain to grab your attention! They are not difficult, just heady. If you climb 5.11, you will be fine.

A nice route though. The traverse on the fourth pitch is awesome! Aug 2, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.11a PG13
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.11a PG13
I found the start on the 1st pitch and the crux of the third pitch to be the headiest areas, and the hardest cruxes. In both areas Tony spotted some places for gear that I may have missed. In comparison the 11a crux on the last pitch was both really well protected and felt easy. I was also happy we brought a double set. I don't think any of the harder sections R rated, but some of the easier sections could be 5.9 PG-13 or R. Aug 4, 2008
Keith Thomas
Socorro, NM
Keith Thomas   Socorro, NM
The undercling / sidepull flake on the traverse on the final pitch is crumbling and will likely fall off soon, either requiring the use of a longer reach or inferior footholds and a higher crystal handhold. A little exhilarating to have the hold crack and flex out a half inch or so. Aug 17, 2009
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
I'm not sure when the hold at the crux broke off completely, I know it has been crumbling for several years now. I did the route again yesterday and the original hold is gone now. The moves basically remain the same with a slightly longer reach to small holds, the key to this section is still the same technical foot sequence though. I've changed the gear beta slightly as well, I have to agree that it is nice to have doubles in the .5 to 1.5 inch range. Jun 16, 2010
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11a PG13
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11a PG13
This was an excellent route.

Wandering, yet ultimately direct. Varied climbing on faces slabs and a little crack.

I thought the first pitch was the crux and solid .11a, maybe even a tad harder. The third pitch you have to punch it at the crux and run it out on 5.9. The traverse is awesome, and the last pitch is not bad (.10c compared to the first) and one of the least sustained on the route. Sep 21, 2013