Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Roybal, Clark Gray 1973
Page Views: 2,700 total · 17/month
Shared By: Clark Gray on Jan 25, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

There has been some confusion where this route goes and how long it is due to it being inaccurate in Mike Hills guide book. Here is the original route description written just after the first ascent.

Start this route at the large ramp at the bottom of the SW face.

Two easy 5.2 leads take you to the bottom of a short 5.7 layback. At the top of this layback there is nice ledge. Set up your belay on the far left side.

From this belay traverse to the right and upward one pitch to a nice belay ledge on the SW ridge.

From here it is an easy full pitch 5.5 traverse left following a ledge and crack system that ends at football ledge.

From football ledge climb the obvious crack system that starts with an awkward off width crack right above the ledge. follow this for four pitches.

When the crack system ends traverse up and right

Traverse back left to a small clean belay ledge at the bottom of an open book with a hand jam crack above it.

The last lead 5.6/5.7 goes up this crack 30 Ft to the summit.

Protection

There is (or was) a bolt at the start of the crack system off football ledge.

Take protection for fist size cracks as well as usual assortment.

Photos