Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Andrew Mason, 2004-2006|
|Page Views:||754 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||longfeather on Apr 13, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Pitch 1: Use medium to small pro on right for first twenty feet (beginning shared with Second Coming) then move left clipping two bolts (10a/b). Move up and right placing 0.75 Camalot at ledge then cruise straight up, and place new green C3 or small Alien cam in a small parallel crack (this is very important piece). Climb the fun natural line past bolts to the top of the face 11b/c *** . You may want to place a #2 or #3 Camalot on the way to the two bolt anchor. 10 bolts or so; 55m.
Pitch 2: Climb to left, passing piton on 5.5R; some pro available on the way to the face. You can place #.4 Camalot on way to first bolt on the face pitch. Climb face direct at 10a, or meander right and pass crux at 5.9- (three bolts). The pitch ends at "big enough for good sex ledge" with a 2-bolt anchor. Two more bolts to get you there. 55m.
Pitch 3: This was goal of Rapture: to link to left side of the established head wall, which is a great place to be. Sprint through a mantle, clipping three bolts on the way to arching left facing crack thats apex is a roof with small crack above some possible looseness and wetness. Stem at the roof (A .5 Camalot is healthy here) then, spring over the 10b roof to excellent hands. Quickly and carefully climb straight up tricky cool section to a big ledge. Grope over the lip of BIG ledge being careful not to send large rocks down. Intermediate belay is possible here at anchor with 1 piton + 1 bolt. Climb straight up to the exciting continuous 5.10a/b crack finishing option, which can also be reached from Second Coming. 58m.