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Routes in Muralla Grande

Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out to Lunch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 140 ft
FA: "Mark and Brian"
Page Views: 1,015 total · 8/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 21, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Passed by on the approach to the longer Muralla Grande routes, this good clean 1-pitch face climb has enough cracks to keep it from getting scary. Well worth doing if you have extra time and a good weather forecast, but there's always that chance that some other climbers will walk on past, and start up your main plan for the day ahead of you.

Climb the clean face right of the big dihedral. Start near the corner and climb straight up past a lone bolt to reach a 2-bolt anchor. However, it's best to continue and do the whole climb as a single pitch. Soon above this anchor, you'll move right to a finger crack, passing the crux, then angle up and left to a flake. From the flake, go straight up to the upper 2-bolt anchor.

Location

This route is the first clean face you come to on the approach down Chimney Canyon, at the SE end of Muralla Grande. This climb ascends a striking clean face right of a prominent right-facing corner. The rap slings/bolts are visible from below.

Descent: Rap the route, with one double rope rappel (35m), or 2 single rope rappels (25m+10m).

Protection

Cams from TCUs to 2", with extras in the smaller sizes, nuts. Or whatever you have for Muralla Grande is probably ok.

Both sets of 2-bolt anchors are old buttonheads, someone with time and energy might want to replace them.

Photos

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Wes Martin
Denver, Colorado
Wes Martin   Denver, Colorado
Climbed this yesterday. You can rappel the whole route with a 70 meter rope. The anchors aren't the best but they weren't horrible either; still usable. Apr 25, 2016
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
The FA info on this route was not included in either the Hill or Schein Sandia guidebooks; I've updated with the info you provided. Most of the time, FA info was not omitted deliberately. Aug 22, 2015
This sounds like a climb two of my great friends and partners put up decades ago. I have always wished to have repeated it.
I'll try to reach them and report back their names so it will be shown who did this climb. What amazes me is how the names of so many climbs continue to survive without the climbers names of the FA parties do not. hmmm
Most likely those friends who climbed w us, and can help verify if any info I derive from my research, will also post here :o)
...Maybe even one or both of the FA party whom I believe to be "Mark and Brian".

They deserve this ' mention' of an FA :| Aug 22, 2015
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
Anchors need some love here. All 5 bolts are big buttonheads (3/8"?), and are solid(ish), but some are cratered out behind the hangers.
The tat is also sketchy at both rap stations. We didn't plan or expect to climb this route, so we didn't have any replacement materials the day we were there, sorry. Take new cord/webbing, and a second screwgate/ring for the lower station.

Pro: Took a single set of nuts, and cams up to 2". I used an entire set of C3's, and two TCU's, and wished I'd had more... Aug 8, 2011