The Second Coming

Four pitches, the final of which is what makes this one such a beauty. However, the star rating of the route really depends on which way you decide to exit the headwall at the top. There are four choices for the final pitch (5.10d, 5.10a, 5.9, and 5.8).

Getting There:
Follow directions to Muralla Grande. As you hike pass the Chimney formation, look to your right for the SECOND alcove. You can see the large headwall at the top of the route from the base. Pitch 1 starts at the right side of the alcove. 

If you find yourself hiking down and around the bottom of the formation, you have gone too far.

The first alcove on the right is a 1-pitch 5.9 named Lawyers, Guns & Money that's worth jumping on to add another pitch for the day. It’s recently been equipped with modern bolts.

ROUTE DETAILS:

Pitch 1 (~30m):
Start up the right corner of the alcove, passing a small tree on the right side via easier terrain until you reach a steeper face. Climb the face, passing a piton, up to a large ledge with two pine trees. Belay from the tree on the left. VARIATION BELAY: If you are going up the chimney variation for pitch 2, traverse left on the ledge system to build a belay at the base of the chimney. Watch for rock fall when belaying here.

Pitch 2 (~50m):
This is a long pitch and there are several ways to climb pitch 2:

A. If belaying from the tree, climb over the tree branch and start angling up and right. After about 25 feet, move up and left on a ramp system. Continue left around the corner, zigzag of the face a bit while passing a piton. You're ultimately headed left towards a ledge that's lower and left of the piton corner where you can build a gear anchor. One can also continue up and right to the ledge facing corner with the pitons to build a belay there.

B. If belaying from the tree, climb over the tree branch and start angling up and right. After roughly 35 feet, follow a crack system up the steeper face. This steeper line protects decently and goes at easy 5.9. Once you reach the top of the face, you'll loose sight of your belayer. From here, angle up and right on a lower angle face. At the top of the face, head left across blocky unprotected terrain to gain a ledge. On this ledge will be a clean left facing dihedral with two pitons. You can't see the dihedral until you're on the ledge. The anchor at this ledge/corner can be tricky. Climb up to clip the first piton to incorporate it into your anchor. There's a small crack above the first piton that takes small gear/nuts or use the flaring crack down low. Optionally, at the far right end of the ledge, you’ll find a couple gear options with a less comfy stance.

C. Climb the short right facing chimney/corner at the very far left edge of the ledge system from where the tree belay is located. After exiting the chimney, continue climbing up over very loose terrain to a large ledge and a gear belay.

Pitch 3 (~50m):
Depending on where you built your pitch 2 anchor, there are a few different ways to get you to the same location. 

A. If starting pitch 3 in the left-facing corner with the pitons, after clipping the second pin traverse left around a flake and then continue up into the left facing corner system. If planning to climb the 5.8 exit pitch, continue straight up the corner system, keeping to the right side of the corner hear the top feels a bit easier. If planning to climb the 5.9, 10a/b or 10d exit pitches, about half way up the corner system, begin traversing left to a clean right facing corner with a ledge and a bolted anchor (with older piton).

B. If starting pitch 3 at the lower anchor, either head up and right into the piton corner and climb as described above. Or apparently one can climb the face (which avoids the piton corner) in order to gain the higher corner system. (If anyone has details on this face option, please post it.)

Pitch 4:
There are four choices for existing the headwall listed RIGHT TO LEFT below:

(a) 5.8 EXIT:  The 5.8 crack is the original finish and is located at the very far right edge of the headwall. To exit via this line, don't traverse left to the normal headwall ledge when climbing pitch 3. Instead, in the upper half of pitch 3, continue straight up the corner system towards the right edge of the headwall to find a bolted anchor that you won't see until you're right on it. Climb the right edge of the headwall until the wall on the right ends at a ledge. From this ledge, make one move up and then a wild exposed move out and around onto the face. The gear on the face is good and the exposed move is a blast. Continue climbing to the top and a gear anchor.

(b) 5.9 EXIT: At the right edge of the headwall ledge, is a crack that starts wide at the bottom and then pinches down. Belay from the tree further back from the top or angle up and left on the face at the top to a bolted anchor.

(c) 10A/B EXIT: From the anchor at the headwall ledge, a clean, steep fractured finger crack angles up and left to a bolted anchor at the top. This is a great pitch for the grade which eats up nuts.

(d) 10D EXIT: To the far left end of the headwall ledge is a 5.10d crack with a bolted anchor at the top.

Once at the top of the cliff, scramble up and north (climbers left) to exit the formation.

Gear: Took a double set of camalots to #3 with a set of nuts.

Anchors: Gear, except for the top of the 3rd pitch (bolts), and the final pitch (tree).