Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Amason 2007
Page Views: 1,289 total · 8/month
Shared By: longfeather on Mar 22, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

Pitch 1(5.9-, 165’):

Start 5 meters right of the inset that is the beginning of The Second Coming. Your back is to the chimney canyon trail. This start is R and more fun, note there is crack way right for pro though off route enough to be pain for second. Climb 10m to a bulge and continue through the right facing bushy chimney to clean 5.8 OW (right of Rapture). Belay at a two bolt anchor that is shared with Rapture.

Pitch 2 (5.7+):

Climb straight up from the rapture bolt anchor through chossy 5.5 to a cool block. Climb the block to a stance( small ledge) just about 20 feet left of The Second Coming. There is a small crack for a belay at your feet. You are Left of Second Comings large left facing dihedral.

Pitch 3 (5.10 r or 5.10 x):

Climb straight up through interesting terrain. Pass over a bulge at the base of a large right facing dihedral (part of Second Coming) onto clean lower face. climb near an arete on right side of the face(5.10R) with tricky pro. It is more fun to climb face left through the 10x section. Way left is reckoning(TR from bolts)XXX 12a/b. Climb the lower face to a large upper headwall thin crack (10-). This crack is left of bolt/piton. The route summits to the right of Reckoning's anchor.

Liar King is link up from the ground to the headwall.

It's more fun than choss fest that is Second Coming.

Location

Start 5 meters right of the inset that is the beginning of The Second Coming.

Protection

P1: 4.5 Camalot
P2: standard Camalot rack
P3: double set of thin cams and small brass RP and HB offsets

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