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Routes in Muralla Grande

Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out to Lunch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: upper: M. Roybal, C. Gray- 1973, lower: P. Prandoni, D. Bridgers 1975
Page Views: 10,043 total, 76/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

P1: (5.7) Face climb on easier terrain, passing a tree on its left. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor.

P2: (5.8) Continue up from the anchor on lower angle face and discontinuous cracks, alongside a stunning right facing dihedral. A pin and bolt supplement the discontinuous cracks system. The pitch ends under a small triangular roof at another 2-bolt anchor.
(P1 and P2 can be combined with a 60m rope)

P3: (5.9+) Climb up to the roof passing it on its left. Enter into a left facing dihedral. Half way up the dihedral a bulge is encountered (5.9+). Fire through the short crux and continue on easier ground, to a ledge system, ending at a 2-bolt anchor.

P4: (5.8) Climb up and slightly right from the belay over clean rock to a 2-bolt anchor.

(Variation P4: (5.10) Having not done this variation, I can’t accurately comment on it. The Sandia rock book comments on loose rock, and attempts to steer climbers to the line I describe above.

NOTE: Pitches 3 & 4 can also easily be combined with a 60m rope, a 50m rope is probably possible as well.

P5: (4th class) Cruise the 4th class gulley to the spacious “Football Ledge”. Belay at the north end of the ledge, there is a large boulder that can be slung as an anchor.
(This pitch is best simul-climbed, however can be done with an intermediate belay before a short headwall within the gulley. From the two bolt belay at the top of pitch 4, you cannot get to the ledge starting pitch 6 in a single 60m pitch)

P6: (5.9+) Face climb to the base of a small roof and a right facing dihedral, ignore the old bolt at the entrance to the dihedral. About 30 feet to the left is the end of Warpy Moople’s p5. An awkward move into the dihedral, followed by a section of OW awaits the leader. After the short OW another awkward slot followed by easier ground to a sloping ledge. This ledge is also the belay for the end of p6 for Warpy Moople.

A #5 Camalot works well for the OW on p6 (a #4 Camalot is not big enough).

P7: (5.7) Finish on the final pitch of Warpy Moople.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, slings. A large Camalot may come in handy for the OW on P6 [new #5 is good], if you want protection on 5.7 OW.

[GP suggestion for rack. Bring:
2 each of finger-size cams, especially if intending to link pitches
1 each thin hand to fist-size cams, up to #3 blue camalot
bigger cams (#4, #5 camalot) optional but can be placed
1 set nuts
Don't need: tiniest cams (#00,#0 TCU) or RPs.]
Spacey Hall
Burque, Land of Enchossment
  5.9+
Spacey Hall   Burque, Land of Enchossment
  5.9+
Climbed on 8/19/17. The "bolts" at the first four belays are old school button heads. These should probably be backed up, it seems unlikely they could handle a fall onto the belay. Otherwise a fun route with good pro the whole way. Aug 20, 2017
Kerr Adams
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+ PG13
Kerr Adams   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+ PG13
There is a fixed #3 at crux on the 6th pitch. Tried to get it out with no luck. Oct 16, 2016
In early Dec, the first two pitches were still in the shade at 11:30am. Chilly! I think the sun hit them around noon. Dec 7, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
My thoughts on this route:

1. It's Awesome

2. Link pitches as described

3. The OW is not hard, no need for gear beyond #3

4. I ended up taking us up on the last pitch essentially straight up and a little right from the end of P6. Stemmed up a corner to a dirty ledge, traversed and up on a face to a diagonal hand crack, up to a ledge with 20ft of corner jamming to the top. No idea what this is, I doubt it's established but if it was clean it would be a great way to finish up. Good times! Oct 26, 2015
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9+
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9+
The 5.10 variation is worth it. I would suggest not wearing a pack for this one. May 21, 2012
ozman
CO / NM
 
ozman   CO / NM
 
Purposefully pulled some loose blocks down on this over the weekend. If you know a rock is loose and you are confident there is nobody below, do not wait to remove loose material on a route. A couple of the blocks were ticking time bombs and should have been pulled long ago. Good route. Sep 12, 2011
Climbed this route today with Supra & Wes, linking pitches as seems to be the norm (1&2, 3&4). A few comments about pro:

IMO, #3 BD camalot was sufficient protection for the pitch 6 crux. I'm a pansy, relatively new 5.9 leader who sews up routes, and I brought the #5 for the OW (I absolutely abhor OW). However, I found the OW was a walk in the park compared to the crux right below it, sufficiently protected by said #3, and i dumped the #5 just to get rid of the weight.

Contrary to the recommended rack above, I found that small metolious mastercams (00 & 0) were very handy for this climb, with plenty of small, parallel cracks just begging for perfect placements.

All and all, this was a very fulfilling climb. Jun 12, 2011
Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO
  5.9+
Jeremy Bauman   Lakewood, CO
  5.9+
Climbed this route today with Casey Eales. Linking pitches works well and the 5.10 variation of p2 is worthwhile. P4 goes much further right than I had expected traversing under a large roof.

Pitch 4 5.11? variation.
Instead of traversing right under a big roof to the anchors, climb through the 6ft roof crack (#4 new style camalot) jamming and lie backing until you pull over the lip and reach for the thin crack. After mantling on a laptop sized ledge to the left of the finger crack, place some pro and continue up to the gully or traverse right to the p4 belay anchors. Jun 7, 2010
nealg
 
nealg  
 
Did route yesterday:

1) definitely link pitches as described

2) i wandered briefly on p4 - the line seems to head more right off the belay then i expected from the topo

3) loose block next to OW on p6 is very sketchy - use great caution; leader in my party yarded on it and it moved alot but still in place

4) the last pitch is a heaping pile of lichen covered death blocks - i also ended up with some heinous drag - use long runners...

overall - thought this was a very mediocre Sandias route; Second Coming, though shorter is more fun and much much less filled with loose junk. May 26, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9+
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9+
I agree with what others have said about the left 5.10a dihedral variation on the second pitch. I thought this was really fun and it protects well. Quite nice. Apr 13, 2010
longfeather
Albuqurque ,NM
longfeather   Albuqurque ,NM
Bone Cage Var to Excitable , solo up for a bit then keep right at start od EB, stay on edge of arete , pro ok but missing sometimes, cross excitable at overhang P1or2 use anchor
P2 join ex boys for 80ft or so then go left climb up three pitches to summit youll cross football ledge left of EB ,P3 leave Football ledge twenty feet left of entrace to it , traverse into schroungy discontinuous crack system,P4-5 climb two pithch straight up to big tree where mtn club left giant piece of webbing.

200' rope required small pro plenty of lichenskill and dry weather, this one runs../

Im just an excitable boy

VAR Amanda Chapin, Longfeather Epistein Mar 14, 2010
mtnrobb
  5.10-
mtnrobb  
  5.10-
5.10 variation is worthwhile I thought... Dec 3, 2008
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
 
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
 
I did the route a few years back and if I remember right the 5.10 variant was rather fun. I don't think it was chosy and I don't really recall the pro as I was following on that pitch. Oct 4, 2008
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.9+
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.9+
A #5 new-style BD Camalot does work in the OW on P6. A #6 might work just as well or perhaps better - not sure. Sep 30, 2008
longfeather
Albuqurque ,NM
longfeather   Albuqurque ,NM
the fixed pins should go away on this route Aug 22, 2008
mattb19
  5.9+
mattb19  
  5.9+
In regard to the flake I tried to yank on it yesterday and it would not go anywhere. Maybe I was just not strong enough. Aug 11, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
Just a few feet above on the sixth pitch is a chalked-up and tempting looking flake to use to get into the awkward dihedral. However, this flake is very sketchy and I wouldn't recommend pulling on it. We considered yanking it yesterday but we think there were people below us. Aug 4, 2008
longfeather
Albuqurque ,NM
longfeather   Albuqurque ,NM
The older sandia guide is an excellent guidebook for texans. new book sucks too though has pretty picture. we need ocd psyco climber photo geek in sandias to climb for about ten years straight for a good guide. Sooo many routes I love it. lots of loose rock you better goto Palomas much safer a bolt every six feet. Aug 1, 2008
longfeather
Albuqurque ,NM
longfeather   Albuqurque ,NM
P1,2 link 58m 5.7+
P3 60m 5.9+ to football go L and climb cool 9+ roof at almost football ledge. you are 20ft right of crappy mashy bolts
P4 45m cl3 hike to near warpy . stop

p5 5.9 50m climb direct and rightish to grassy ledge 30m above football ledge. Climb cool 5.9 crack with exit OW easy there is fixed nut on this crack. keep going rightish to big sexy ledge. belay small pro.
p6 40m 5.6 to summit

much shorter and safer than WARP finish. with a little simul climbing 4 pitches. I have excellent topo of excitable boys drawn by Jim Linn while drinking moonshine in 1995. note,There is a great r var if you climb p1,2 far right on face and arete. recently tried to climb direct from football, above crappy placed mashy bolts, to big tree got scared and downclimbed ,bit runny. Might try again on TR for three pitch version of excitable. Aug 1, 2008
I know what you mean. A lot of the routes in Mikes book were relayed after the facts and sometimes many beers. Thats why after a few inquires I decided to write down the original route description to Clarks Cramps. See routes. Jan 25, 2008
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
 
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
 
Word to the Wise. Using the Mike Hill guide requires some serious interpretation and adaptation skills on the part of the reader. I'm sure the poor and often completely wrong information in the Hill guide, lead to the many epics and suspect reputation the Sandias have gained over the years. Either of the Schein guides are vast improvements. Do not rely on the Hill guide for any accurate information when it comes the climb descriptions or topos.

The first time I climbed Excitable Boys we thought we were doing Clark's Cramps!? Dec 3, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
#4 Camalot (old-style, or new, doesn't matter) is not big enough for the OW on p6. You need bigger pro than this, or grovel up it without immediate close pro (no big deal- it's 5.7 or so).
Other comments:
  • Link pitches 1+ 2 and pitches 3 + 4 w/ 60m rope as stated above.
  • On the 4th class pitch (p5): From 2 bolt belay on top of the 5.9 p4 option, you can't get to Football Ledge in a single 60m pitch. If you were to set a belay after 60m, what remains is probably 'only' 3rd class, however. Or simulclimb, which is what most people do.

This climb is a good option especially if other parties occupy The Second Coming or Warpy Moople. This climb is less sustained than Warpy Moople, and the cruxes are perhaps a notch harder than Warpy Moople but with obvious good pro at them.

The Hill guide to the Sandias does not show this route by this name; rather it appears to show this line as Masochist Variant (Prandoni/Bridgers,1975) Nov 4, 2007
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Pitches 3 & 4 can also easily be combined with a 60m rope, a 50m rope is probably possible as well. Didn't take a #4 camelot, but might be nice if you don't like wide stuff. Aug 12, 2007