Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: upper: M. Roybal, C. Gray- 1973, lower: P. Prandoni, D. Bridgers 1975
Page Views: 16,216 total · 78/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: (5.7) Face climb on easier terrain, passing a tree on its left. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor.

P2: (5.8) Continue up from the anchor on lower angle face and discontinuous cracks, alongside a stunning right facing dihedral. A pin and bolt supplement the discontinuous cracks system. The pitch ends under a small triangular roof at another 2-bolt anchor.
(Slight Variation: 5.10 essentially stay in the dihedral instead of climbing the broken face out right. Rejoins after about 25 feet.)

Note: (P1 and P2 can be combined with a 60m rope and is recommended)

P3: (5.9+) Climb up to the roof passing it on its left. Enter into a left facing dihedral. Half way up the dihedral a bulge is encountered, aka turning the lip (5.9+). Fire through the short crux and continue on easier ground, to a ledge system, ending at a 2-bolt anchor. -- There is an obvious medium-sized roof about 30feet above you.

P4: (5.8) From the two bolts, head up and slightly right from the belay over clean rock to a 2-bolt anchor.
(Variation P4: (5.10) From the two bolts, head up and left on easy ground. An obvious piton leads the way. Continue past a bush (needs to be gardened slightly and from here you can spot a lone bolt up by a small roof.) and go up an easy corner system #4 was nice here, heading for the bolt(buttonhead). Get some gear in where you can, careful of the blocks, then do some interesting body mechanics to pull over the little roof/corner [short crux] and go up and right via path of least resistance. Traverse right a little and up to keep things chill and you're right at a belay. Two .4s and a nut or two works.

Note: P3 and P4 can also easily be combined with a 60m rope
You'll need at least a 70meter or just short of that to link if doing the variation; Extend all your pieces well for the best result.

P5: (4th class) Cruise the 4th class gulley to the spacious "Football Ledge". Belay at the north end of the ledge, there is a large boulder that can be slung as an alpine anchor. (This pitch is best simul-climbed or soloed honestly, however can be done with an intermediate belay before a short headwall within the gulley. From the two bolt belay at the top of pitch 4, you cannot get to the ledge starting pitch 6 in a single 60m pitch)
(Variation): See EB Headwall Variation for an alternate ending to this route. (avoids the 4th class romp)

P6: (5.9+) Face climb to the base of a small roof and a right facing dihedral, ignore the old bolt at the entrance to the dihedral. About 30 feet to the left is the end of Warpy Moople's p5. An awkward move into the dihedral, followed by a section of OW awaits the leader. After the short OW another awkward slot followed by easier ground to a sloping ledge. This ledge is also the belay for the end of p6 for Warpy Moople

A #5 Camalot works well for the OW on p6

P7: (5.7) (This is the same final pitch of Warpy Moople ) From the sloping ledge, keep going up the crack/corner system.
Pass two baby pine trees and either go to the left or right chimney on either side of a large mass of stone. Climb to the summit.
(Variation P7: (5.8)) Start the same, as P7 and choose the left chimney. Besides the large mass of stone mentioned, there's a very flat polished block out left too. Head up towards the base of it, traverse left a few moves past a bush. Go up a move or two in an alcove and traverse up and right on the face with nice tight hands/hands to a ledge. Go up the cracked dihedral up to the summit and belay.-should clean up nicely if it gets a little traffic.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, slings. A large Camalot may come in handy for the OW on P6 [new #5 is good], if you want protection on 5.7 OW.

[GP suggestion for rack.]
Bring:
2 each of finger-size cams, especially if intending to link pitches
1 each thin hand to fist-size cams, up to #3 blue camalot
bigger cams (#4, #5 camalot) optional but can be placed
1 set nuts
Don't need: tiniest cams (#00,#0 TCU) or RPs.

Photos

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