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Routes in Yucca Flower Tower

Aces and Eights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Escape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rawhide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squash Blossom T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Western Justice (Frontier Justice) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Yucca Flower Tower T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Horak, Mark Leonard 1987
Page Views: 2,545 total, 22/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1, 10c 140 feet
Start up easy face climbing to reach the superb fracture ahead. Place pro and jam and lieback the strenuous finger crack (crux). Continue up past a small dihedral, to a thin section through discontinous fractures. Angle left to the shared anchors with Squash Blossom.

Pitch 2, 5.9 150 feet
Head slightly left off the belay and climb a nice finger and hand crack up through a slightly tricky section, to easy low angle climbing to the anchor, there is an occasional 5.7 move or so.

For a nice finish head up the Great Escape to top out.

Location

Starts up the obvious fracture 10 feet left of Yucca Flower Tower

Protection

Double set to #1 Camelot, 1 #2 & #3 Camelot optional, Small cams down to green C3, small nuts and micro nuts.

Photos

Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.10d
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.10d
This route linked with Great Escape makes for what would be an excellent 5 star outing at any crag. Also, the 30 feet of crux climbing is one of the few stretches of pure crack climbing I have encountered in the Sandias. Highly recommended. Jun 15, 2015
Ima Fred Knot
Victoria, Seychelles
Ima Fred Knot   Victoria, Seychelles
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.10+
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.10+
As the description says, I found the beginning very strenuous. Gear has to be placed from strenuous positions and no feet make for some insecure smearing moves. Nevertheless it's a nice classic. I loved the finger-locks on the beginning of the second pitch. May 5, 2012
Ryan Curry  
 
This pitch is the real deal; quality from start to finish. You could get away leading this without RP's, standard thin wires would suffice. This was my climbing partner's favorite climb in the Sandias and my second favorite (after Squash Blossom). Apr 22, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Although not critical for a 5.10 crack climber, a #4 Friend comes in handy at the brief section with fists. Throw it in and go--an awesome climb. Jun 17, 2008