Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Mark Dalen, Charles Ware, 1977 FFA: Doug Drumheller, Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, Doug Teague, 1986.
Page Views: 5,041 total · 32/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

After rapping to the base of the Yucca Flower Tower, head to the top of the pillar at your right (not the gully!). The route begins just at the top of this pillar.

Pitch 1 (80'): Head up the obvious crack though a small roof, continuing through a corner system. Below another roof, clip a piton, and move through some awkward roof moves. Just up and left of the crux, find the bolted belay (5.10b).

Pitch 2+3: Head straight up a fine looking finger crack (5.9+), after which you can either stop at a convenient belay ledge and make the climb 4 pitches, or continue up easy low angle climbing to the anchors on the rappel block.

Pitch 4: (We did not do this exit pitch, we went to the first rappel and exited at Great Escape, a MUCH nicer variation!) The original line climbs up and to the left of a right facing corner and to the top (5.4).

Protection

Double set to #1 Camalot, with 1 #2, and nuts and slings (will want some to avoid rope drag) will suffice.

Photos