Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Doug Drumheller, Doug Teague, 1987
Page Views: 5,891 total · 34/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

This route ends at the same area of the first rappel into the Yucca Flower Tower. This is also the best variation to link with Yucca Flower Tower as an exit. It can also be top-roped. The route begins in the corner following the first rappel.

Follow the right facing corner to a small roof, head slight left and over the roof, and follow the beautiful finger crack. Head up, traversing right (5.10c crux), then up into the corner through the finger crack to another small roof (5.10b). When the crack runs out, work slightly left to another crack and then to the summit.

You can also step left at where the crack veers right, and head up through the dihedral and to the summit for a 5.9 finish.

Location

To find the route, see directions for getting to Yucca Flower Tower.

Protection

Could easily get by with a single set of Camalots to #2 and a set of Nuts.

Photos