All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area… > Sandia Mountains > Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower
Western Justice (Frontier Justice)
Avg: 3.4 from 10 votes
Routes in Yucca Flower Tower
|Aces and Eights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Great Escape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rawhide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Squash Blossom T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Western Justice (Frontier Justice) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Where Eagles Dare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Yucca Flower Tower T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, TR, Alpine, 170 ft|
|FA:||Doug Drumheller, Mark Leonard, 1987|
|Page Views:||1,388 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jun 26, 2009|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionWestern Justice climbs a steep, smooth-looking face, following cracks and seams. It's fairly sustained in difficulty and it makes a good follow-up to climbs in the Yucca Flower Tower area.
Rappel or lower ~170' from the rim, which will eventually lower you into a stance at the base of the obvious right-facing corner. The start is somewhat vague, but if you begin below the lowest bolt, you'll get all the good parts of the route.
Start by moving left into a finger crack, passing a couple of bushes, or begin higher up in the left-facing corner. Move left to a finger crack below a bolt and a piton. Passing these is the first crux (5.11a), with off-balance moves, thin feet, and holds facing the wrong way as you follow the crack as it jogs right. You're through when you reach a hand jam. Above, move left into a stance, with another piton (old belay?), and climb easier thin cracks (5.10) with occasional hands sections. These cracks fork about 20' near the top, stem between the two of them, or stay in the rightmost crack. Watch out for a final thin crux (5.10+) about 8' below the rim.
Western Justice isn't so much of a thin face with small edges. Rather, in the harder sections, the holds all seem to slope the wrong way, and the feet are not so obvious.
LocationThis is the rightmost line on the clean wall south of Great Escape, following thin cracks on the smooth face, just left of the hand crack in a left-facing corner (Aces & 8's).
Approach as for the Yucca Flower Tower rappel. (Down the Crest Spur Trail to the junction; left on the La Luz 10 minutes to the Domingo Baca overlook- where the trail turns sharply left- then down the ridgeline on a climbers trail to the west and look for the anchors).
ProtectionStandard rack of nuts & cams to #3 camalot, with extras in the smaller sizes, for leading.
A tree, or the 2-bolt anchor for Aces & 8's, can be used to set a toprope.
There are 3-4 fixed pins & a bolt on the route. (see comment).