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Great Escape

5.10c, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 73 votes
FA: Doug Drumheller, Doug Teague, 1987
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower

Description

This route ends at the same area of the first rappel into the Yucca Flower Tower. This is also the best variation to link with Yucca Flower Tower as an exit. It can also be top-roped. The route begins in the corner following the first rappel.

Follow the right facing corner to a small roof, head slight left and over the roof, and follow the beautiful finger crack. Head up, traversing right (5.10c crux), then up into the corner through the finger crack to another small roof (5.10b). When the crack runs out, work slightly left to another crack and then to the summit.

You can also step left at where the crack veers right, and head up through the dihedral and to the summit for a 5.9 finish.

Location

To find the route, see directions for getting to Yucca Flower Tower.

Protection

Could easily get by with a single set of Camalots to #2 and a set of Nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mark pulling through the crux of The Great Escape.
[Hide Photo] Mark pulling through the crux of The Great Escape.
Will Vining nears the crux of The Great Escape.
[Hide Photo] Will Vining nears the crux of The Great Escape.
Carolyn Parker on the Great Escape
[Hide Photo] Carolyn Parker on the Great Escape
Loren Young on Great Escape 1998
[Hide Photo] Loren Young on Great Escape 1998
Dr. Dave tops out The Great Escape on a sketchy wet morning ascent.
[Hide Photo] Dr. Dave tops out The Great Escape on a sketchy wet morning ascent.
Kevin heading up the 5.9 variation of The Great Escape.
[Hide Photo] Kevin heading up the 5.9 variation of The Great Escape.
Photo-topo of the Great Escape.
[Hide Photo] Photo-topo of the Great Escape.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Combined with the Yucca Flower Tower route, The Great Escape makes for one of the best outings of this grade and length in the Sandias. Pretty much perfect stone. Dec 1, 2007
[Hide Comment] The thin holds and good balance over this well protected crux makes for some good fun. Jun 8, 2010
Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR
 
[Hide Comment] The crux is really fun. There’s about 25 feet of business, and it’s not all that difficult to read. More “gym-style” than most 5.10 crack climbs. Definitely an accessible lead for someone looking to push the grade - just bring up plenty of finger sized pieces if you want to sew it up. Aug 10, 2023