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Routes in Yucca Flower Tower

Aces and Eights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Escape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rawhide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squash Blossom T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Western Justice (Frontier Justice) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Yucca Flower Tower T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Duran & David Benyak, August 1988
Page Views: 1,091 total, 10/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Note that I only TR'd this climb, if someone who has led it wants to update the description contact an admin.

Pitch 1, 5.12a PG13 140 feet
Head up 5.10 face climbing to a bolt and a fixed pin. Here things get hard, stem and layback your way up the thin seam (guide mentions pre-placing rp's to protect this section) to reach the stellar finger crack above. Jam up the finger crack to a small stembox and roof. Pull roof, second crux and more small pro. Head up on easier ground with great jams to a short left facing dihedral and the anchors shared with rawhide.

Possible to traverse right at the roof to join Rawhide for an easier variation.

Pitch 2, 5.9 150 feet, Shared with Rawhide
Head slightly left off the belay and climb a nice finger and hand crack up through a slightly tricky section, to easy low angle climbing to the anchor, there is an occasional 5.7 move or so.

For a nice finish head up the Great Escape to top out.

Location

Start 10 feet left of Rawhide below a bolt and a fixed pin.

Protection

Many small cams, RP's and small nuts up to #2 camelot.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a PG13
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a PG13
I felt Squash Blossom was perhaps the most serious, intimidating, hardest 11+/12- I've been on in the Sandias (Not to disagree with the above posters, and I haven't tried Sister Sledge, and maybe it's just early season?) Low 12 has been my limit in the Sandias, I would be hesitant to lead this next time without pre-loading lots of gear while rapping in. Hats off to those who can rap in without close inspection, pull the rope and send it. Mar 19, 2016
Ryan Curry
  5.12a PG13
Ryan Curry  
  5.12a PG13
Incredible climb with fun moves, good rock, and very sustained. I thought the moves coming out from under the little roof were cruxy and exciting, especially since the feet were a bit dirty. This route seems somewhat neglected as it was dirty in several sections and there wasn't a hint of chalk on it. It definately deserves more attention. Go climb this thing! Apr 22, 2011
Mick S
Utah
 
Mick S   Utah
 
The original (.12c) rating avoided the rest to the right of the small roof. I agree that it's .11d using the rest, and not nearly as scary with the fixed pin. Aug 12, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.11d PG13
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.11d PG13
Even on lead it is no harder than .11+ unless you try to place in the middle of the hard sections. You have to be willing to climb to the good stances and place there, like I said good stances every 12-15'. You should just lead it I'm sure you're capable, I'd say preclipping the bolt on rappel and putting one of your rap lines through it then pulling the rope so it's clipped to the first is a good idea to minimize the risk of pulling your belayer down the gully should you pitch before the bolt. Aug 6, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Lee, I think Kevin Jaramillo lead this around 10 years ago or so.

I agree that it feels soft for a 12a without placing any gear. On TR it felt 11c/d or so. Certainly easier than Sister Sledge. Aug 4, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.11d PG13
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.11d PG13
If this was a bolted face it would be no harder than .11+,. Does anyone out there know of anyone who lead this prior to 2006 with the obvious exception of John D? I think the route has a slightly more fearsome reputation than it deseves, (possibly even without the pin, though I know at least one individual has lobbed onto the pin and while the RP placement just below looks good, no garauntees on its actual quality), which causes most people to end up TRing it. There is good gear about every 12-15' throught the hard stuff. Aug 4, 2008