Torreon Rock Climbing

Overview:
From the Crest parking lot, you are going to go west and down an aspen-covered ridge to a log-cabin ruin. From this tumbled-down cabin, one heads North, just above a cliff, until it is possible to descend a 4th-class gully and then head South along the base of Torreon to access the climbs. Portions of this approach can be tricky.

Downloadable GPX for Approach Trail (or view trail on map):
https://www.mountainproject.com/approach-trail/126881592 

Details:
The aspen-covered ridge that heads down to the West is easily visible from the Crest Spur Trail.

Head north at the end of the FIRST switchback on the Crest Spur Trail, at a grey post on a well-trodden path (35.20966, -106.44984). Go about 100’ to a dead, double tree trunk tree near the limestone edge (35.20999, -106.45048). Downclimb the vertical limestone band just south of this (a few 5.2ish moves punctuated with ledges). It helps to go with someone who knows where the down-climb is. Once on the aspen-covered ridge, go down (west) on the broad ridge on faint trails. The ridge ends at a beautiful overlook where you can see the back side of Torreon to the West (roughly 35.20951, -106.45170). 

[An alternative to downclimbing the limestone cliff is to continue down the Spur Trail to the end of the THIRD switchback where you'll find a climber's trail that splits off and heads north. Immediately follow the trail UPHILL towards the cliff base and RESIST the temptation to go down the gully here. This mistake leads to crossing lots of unstable soil/scree. Though there isn't much trail, hugging or staying just below the base of the cliff keeps you on relatively stable soil with a bit of bushwhacking. You are aiming for the aspen-covered ridge. This route is a good alternative to bypass the limestone band if it has rained.]

Heading down and skier's right (north) from the cabin ruins will arrive you to the edge of the 1st (WRONG) loose gully. Keep hiking noth. The CORRECT 2nd gully has a 4th-class downclimb and is about 100 paces further North. Landmarks are: The gully has a yellow head wall. You bypass it by going North and then making a switchback near two large Douglas Fir trees (biggest ones around). The correct gully (35.21044, -106.45176) is trodden, involves a ledgey 4th-class downclimb and heads West (probably to your right) and the short yellow headwall of the gully is probably up to your left. There may be a small cairn at your feet. This is the ONLY entrance to a legitimately 4th class way down this gully. 

Downclimb into the gully and start the long steep hike down. After a while you'll be stumbling down loose scree and talus in the woods, clearly following the path of those who have done it before you. When in doubt of whether to scramble down into a gully over large talus, instead curve to the left (South) to more-or less hug the base of Torreon (35.21014, -106.45342).

Topping out:
Scramble north to the top of Torreon. Look off the east side. There is a pine that probably sports various vintage slings, cords, descending rings, quick-links, etc. Rap from this with one 60-m rope. When descending, try to stay to the climber's right to go over the big blocks. After pulling the rope, traverse East and climb the gully Northeast. After some scrambling there will probably be a fixed rope to pull on at a step. After a bit more huffing up the gully, the tumble-down cabin appears on your right.