All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon, Upper

The Thumb Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Thumb

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aviary Ort Overhangs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fowl Play T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Halfbreed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	North Summit Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Southeast Ridge (a.k.a., standard descent) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Southern Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Thundercracker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Twist-O-Flex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Water Stains T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

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Elevation:	9,854 ft	3,003 m
GPS:	35.2049, -106.454 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	43,114 total · 185/month
Shared By:	Anthony Stout on Jan 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

If you look down from the limestone band atop the Sandia crest (hiking down the La Luz trail), into upper La Cueva Canyon, you will see a striking double summited formation dominating your view. Though it looks nothing like a thumb, unless viewed from the north. In the center of the formation a distinct corner system can be seen, which is the route, Aviary Ort Overhangs. All of the routes on the east side will spend only the morning in the sun, so area does not not make a good fall/spring/winter climbing area. But, summertime temps on this face will likely be quite pleasant.

Getting There

Note: These directions will take you to the center of the formation, where Aviary Ort Overhangs is.

Find the crest spur trail on the south side of the Sandia Crest parking lot, and follow it about 1/2 mile. Head down the La Luz trail, down several switch backs, and continuing down past a several talus slopes. After the talus slops, the trail will eventually reenter the trees. Find a faint trail at the next switchback that will head west through the woods. Following the trail, you will eventually come to a point where it is possible to scramble to the bottom of Aviery ort overhangs.

Descent Directions

From wherever you topped out on the Thumb, continue south to the highest, southernmost peak. Gaining the south summit requires some easy but exposed scrambling (easier than it looks).

From the south summit, continue along the ridge heading south for 150ft. Right before you get cliffed out (there is often a slung block here where some people rap), turn skier's right (west) and down climb to a tree. From this tree, follow a nice ledge system skier's left just below the south ridge of the Thumb. This ledge system brings you to the easy slab that is visible from above, from where you first got cliffed out and had to turn right. Continue scrambling down to the saddle at the south end of the formation.

Once you're at the saddle, you're home free. Turn skier's left (which is north now) and descend into the trees/talus. Walk hard right staying above the talus below. Keeping contouring around until above forested slopes skier's right of the boulder field. Once in the trees there is a rough climbers trail that will quickly bring you back to the La Luz trail 500 Ft below.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 112 ● Northwest Ridge Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 8 ● Water Stains Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 74 ● Aviary Ort Overhangs Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Twist-O-Flex Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● Halfbreed Trad 4 pitches