Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Whitelaw & Robert Hanson
Page Views: 524 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alam on Oct 12, 2013 with updates from George Perkins
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

P1 (5.9) Climb the smooth face up a black streak marked with 2 bolts. Then continue upwards through a series of delicate face moves and another bolt for about 100 feet to a 2 bolt belay on a large sloping ledge.

P2 (5.9++) climb straight up from belay into an slightly over-hanging dihedral to a left trending ramp. After about 20 feet off belay there is a 2nd bolt with a burly move to the obvious jug to the right (crux - for the weak), Continue straight up (keeping to the left of the tree), through a large dihedral. Locate a 2 bolt belay at 120 feet.

P3 (5.10a) This pitch follows the line of bolts (8-10 bolts)about 20 feet to the right of the belay. [There is a bolt to the left above the belay, some other effort]. Climb the bolted line straight up, solid rock, great climbing. The crux (5.10a) is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... a nice balance face move. 150 ft - ends at a 2 bolt belay.

P4: Climb upward and drifting to left to reach the saddle near the top. All natural gear.

P5 goes to the southern summit and the walk off decent. Some people free this section - but it only takes 1 slip....

All Bolts on this climb are old 1/4 button bolts - backup with gear when possible.

All belays are nice 3/8 bolts.

Location

Twist-O-Flex is located about 30 ft to the left and about 70 feet above the base of the cliff. From water stains transverse the base of the wall to the left (N) about 25 to 30 yards to a gully/notch that you can scramble up about 30 feet, then transverse (4th class) to the right on a series of ledges aiming for a large tree and a very smooth face that marks the first pitch.

Protection

Complete rack to 3 inches - even though it has bolts, gear is required on P1, P2 and P4

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