Avg: 2 from 5 votes
Routes in The Thumb
|Aviary Ort Overhangs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fowl Play T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Halfbreed T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|North Summit Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Southeast Ridge (a.k.a., standard descent) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Thundercracker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Twist-O-Flex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Water Stains T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 390 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Josh Smith, Ryan Hess, May 2007 (or John Duran?)|
|Page Views:||999 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Smith on May 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionStart exactly the same as Aviary Ort. Head up and right over a flake system for about fifteen feet to the obvious crack system splitting the wall. The crack goes up behind a large pine tree.
The first pitch ends after 100ft at a nice ledge/stance. It's about 5.10a, though after it gets cleaned up a little, it might be easier. Protection is good.
The second pitch goes straight up for about 75 feet to where an offset (small roof) trends off to the right. Don't go straight up; the cracks die out. The crack under the right facing roof takes good pro. A pin was added Aug. 08 to point the way. Above is an obvious right facing dihedral. Belay at the base on a big ledge. Hand size cam useful. 100 ft. Protection is good. 5.10b.
Pitch 3. 5.10+. Goes straight up the dihedral. Both the climbing and the pro are tricky right off the ledge. Look for a V-groove about ten feet off the ledge, below the true start of the dihedral. The bottom of the groove takes an excellent nut. Start up the dihedral proper; there is a fixed nut, then a bolt (Aug. 08)to protect against a ledge fall below. The rest of the dihedral is pretty straight forward, though a bit harder than the first two pitches. 10+, maybe It's got quite a lot of lichen in the upper section of the dihedral. End in the vicinity of a large tree. Protection is adequate.
Pitch 4 goes to the ridge line very near to the Aviary Ort finish. It's possible to do about three different finishes ranging from 5.5 to 5.7. Like Ort, it's a bit loose on top. 90 feet. Protection is adequate.
This will be a good route, but there are a few loose blocks on the first pitch. I've been on it three times, and the area has been too busy to toss them off. If you do the route and can safely throw them down, please do.
We called it Fowl Play because it's near Aviary Ort. We did it with no bolts originally, but added one in August 08, plus two pieces of fixed gear, to make it a bit safer. As always in the Sandias, you might have to look around a bit to find the gear placements and suss the line.