Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Kear, Benny Abruzzo Spring 2009
Page Views: 1,385 total · 10/month
Shared By: John Kear on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

This route climbs the true water stains on the west face of the Thumb. The rock is perfect from eons of water polishing.

P1: Start on ledges at the base of the major water stains on the Thumb's West face. Climb up and slightly right to an overlap, climb directly over it and on to face climbing above past two bolts. Belay at a single bolt (6 Ft right of the old anchor, with poor bolts) and good 1/2 inch gear. 5.9+ 110ft.

P2: Climb straight up a dark corner on to lighter colored face, easy climbing leads directly to a shallow right facing corner, climb up and left on into the water stains, clip a bolt and pull the crux by moving up and right (5.10a) continue up and slightly left trending past another bolt to another belay ledge with a bolt and small gear for the belay. 5.10b 165ft

P3: Step up and left off the belay and clip a bolt, face climb into a corner, climb up the corner and exit right to a shallow right facing corner/offset. Climb straight up through the water stains on excellent face climbing to a good belay alcove. 5.10a 150ft

P4: Climb up to the right in a left facing corner. From the top of the corner diagonal hard right to a short wall baring the way. Step out around the corner to the right of the wall and continue on good quality face and slab climbing still diagonal trending right. Head for a large tree and belay when the rope runs out. 5.8 195ft.

50 feet of 3rd to 4th class will get you to the top of the Thumb.

Location

The route is on the west face of the Thumb. The start is found by starting directly under the large water stains in the middle of the west face. From the top continue along the ridge heading south for 150ft. Turn right and down climb to a tree. Follow a nice ledge system down just below the S ridge of the Thumb. Continue scrambling down the S ridge to the col at the S end of the formation. Once you cut down on to the N side of the col walk hard right staying above the talus below. Keeping contouring around until above forested slopes skiers right of the boulder field. Once in the trees there is a rough climbers trail that will quickly bring you back to the La Luz trail 500 Ft below.

Protection

The pro is good but generally thin. Bring extra .3-.5 inch cams and a standard Sandia rack to 2.5 inches.
P1 two bolts and one at the belay
P2 two bolts and one at the belay
P3 one bolt with natural anchor
P4 no fixed gear

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