Wizard of Air
Avg: 3.8 from 10 votes
Routes in Torreon
|Bitch's Brew T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Crossroads T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mountain Momma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Sorcerer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Voodoo Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Wizard of Air T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||William Penner and Eric Whitbeck, September 2005|
|Page Views:||3,860 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||William Penner on Mar 7, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionPitch 1 (5.11-) follows bolts and gear to a ledge and bolted belay that is located somewhat near the beginning of Wizard of Odd (Most folks start Wizard of Odd by scrambling around the south end of the Torreon and up a gully onto a ledge that is about 80 to 90 ft off the ground).
Pitch 2 (5.10-) follows obvious seams up into a short left-facing dihedral, exiting right beneath a small roof to a small ledge with a bolted belay. The upper section of the pitch is shared with Wizard of Odd. The folks who got the first ascent of Wizard of Odd were consulted prior to placing this anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.11+) goes up then left passing a bolt until you can turn the roof at its left side. Trend up and right passing bolts and a hard crux until a large ledge and bolted belay is reached right around the corner. An excellent pitch.
Pitch 4 (5.12-) follows fixed gear on the obvious (and beautiful) arete easily visible from the La Luz Trail. After a section of thin face, trend left past the crux to the arete and eventually turn around the arete to its left and heading up to another ledge with a bolted belay. One of the best face climbing pitches in the Sandias with awesome exposure.
Pitch 5 (5.9+) trends up and left wandering for almost a full rope-length until a large ledge. Use your instincts.
Pitches 6 and 7 are typical Sandias last pitches--ie, grainy, blocky, loose. Wander up the remaining portion of the south prow of the Torreon.
LocationWizard of Air starts ~100 right of Mountain Momma. The route was established ground up in 2005.
If you top out the route, descend the standard way for the Torreon.
A better option is to do the first four pitches, rap the route, and go blast up Mountain Momma for a full day. A single 60 m rope will get you down from the top of Pitch 4 but barely. It is safer to take a 70 m rope and be careful rapping Pitch 3 as it overhangs quite a bit. All anchors have chains.