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Wizard of Odd, P2, 2nd ascent, 1980.
ID 107470040 ·

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Mark Dalen
Feb 10, 2012
Wizard of Odd, P2, 2nd ascent, 1980.  
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Yeah, sorry about cutting that toaster-sized block loose. But I was on a tenuous stance and there was no way to keep that thing attached to the wall. It came loose the instant I touched it, so my only option was to scream "ROCK" a few times and let it go. Luckily my belayer was off to the side.
We also yanked off a dinner-plate flake the first time I was on that pitch. Otherwise it seems pretty solid up to there. And "R".

Editorial: It's unfortunate that that new bolted line crosses the leftward traverse on P1. It's reeaallly tempting to clip those suckers. The first time I didn't, and it was 'full value'; the second time I did, for expedience's sake. Nov 3, 2012
For the record, the FA party of Wizard of Odd gave us permission to add the bolts Chris mentioned. Obviously you don't need to clip them if you are concerned with doing some "true" version of Wizard of Odd. If you did clip them then it is odd to say they should not be there. Nov 5, 2012
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Chris,

Eric and I, the FA party of Wizard of Air, give you permission to clip the bolts we placed with the blessing of the Wizard of Odd first ascentionist ;)

Sorry you feel they intrude on your experience, but I did not hear a complaint about the pin we fixed at the beginning of the route. That makes a sketchy section with ledge-fall potential much better.

Glad to see anybody getting out into the Sandias and climbing the routes, both old and new.

Cheers,

W Nov 7, 2012

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