Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
Routes in Torreon
|Bitch's Brew T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Crossroads T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mountain Momma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Sorcerer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Voodoo Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Wizard of Air T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Peter Prandoni and Ron Beauchamp, Sept. 1981|
|Page Views:||664 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Sky Sjue on Oct 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionQuality climbing despite some friable rock and avian excrement.
Pitch 1: Follow Mountain Momma.
Pitch 2 (5.10+): Follow Mountain Momma until it heads left. Instead of going left toward the shared belay pedestal with Voodoo Child, continue directly up the corner system. Pull through a steep section on positive holds in friable rock to a belay with one bolt (can be fortified with protection in kitty litter pockets). This is a longish (~50 m) pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.10+): Continue up the corner. Stemming and liebacking lead through a bulge to a hand crack filled with bird poop. Bail gear from lost souls in search of Mountain Momma is evident. Follow the hand crack until it ends in a corner below a roof. Face climb right past the roof (take small brassies and micro nuts) to a nice belay stance with a fixed nut above it.
Pitch 4 (5.11-): Strenuous moves through the roof directly above the belay stance (crux) lead past a piton to a finger crack. The route rejoins Mountain Momma at the large ledge system below its last pitch.
Pitch 5: Standard finish to the top of Torreon via easy 5th class.