Pino Wall Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 9,872 ft | 3,009 m |
GPS: |
35.18909, -106.43102 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 13,544 total · 62/month | |
Shared By: | Bill Lawry on Jun 9, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Perched high in the Sandias above Albuquerque, Pino Wall is a scenic wall for climbers seeking adventure and solitude. Rising approximately 500 feet, the wall boasts generally excellent rock quality and sits just south of the upper Sandia Tram terminal.
The formation is divided by a prominent “nose,” creating two distinct faces. The west face—which looks southwest toward the Jawbone—receives sun around 11:30 a.m., while the south face warms up much earlier, making it a viable option for winter climbing. Routes on the south face tend to be more challenging than those on the west.
Access to all climbs is via rappel to the base, followed by a 4- to 5-pitchs back to the top.
SOUTH WALL ROUTES (L TO R)
- Parallel Universe - 5.12a/b - 4 pitches
- License and a Visa - 5.11b/c - 4 pitches
- Desert Man - 5.10a/b - 4 pitches
- Red Dawn - 5.11c - 4 pitches
WEST WALL ROUTES (L TO R)
- Windfull Thinking - 5.9 - 4 pitches
- Pino Wall Route - 5.8 - 5 pitches
- Bad Fun - 10b - 4 pitches
- Dust to Dust - 10d - 4 pitches
Getting There
The approach to Pino Wall starts at the Ellis Trailhead (if driving) or the upper terminal (if riding the tram). Approach times to the top of the cliff are roughly 1 hour from the Ellis Trail parking lot, or 25 minutes from the tram.
Park at the Ellis Trailhead and hike the dirt road south to the upper Tram Terminal. From the Tram building, continue south on the Crest trail south through the woods for about 5-8 minutes. Look for a faint rocky trail on your right that heads up to the crest (35.19153, -106.43026). Take this to the crest and head south 200 feet to old concrete foundation blocks. Just before the blocks, look for a cairn marking the descent trail to Pino Wall (35.19102, -106.42995). Follow the trail down with relative ease heading SSW until you get to a clearing about 50 feet before the cliff edge.
PICK YOUR RAPPEL
There are different "best" rappels for climbs on different parts of the cliff:
- For Windfull Thinking & Pino Wall Route, rappel Windfull Thinking with 2 ropes; or rappel Dust to Dust with 1 70m rope (rope stretching) and walk over.
- For Dust to Dust & Bad Fun, rappel Dust to Dust with 1 70m rope (rope stretching).
- For Parallel Universe, License and a Visa & Desert Man, rappel License and a Visa with 2 ropes.
- For Red Dawn, rappel Red Dawn with 2 ropes (or a 70m that may be slightly too short).
One can also bushwack down the densly vegetated gully located on the west side of the wall between the Pino Wall and the Jawbone. Start from the aspen stand in the broad saddle between the Jawbone and the crest ridge as described in the approach for Pino Wall & Jawbone. Continue descending down the steep gully using a vague game trail while working to stay on the rocks to minimize bushwhacking. Stay to the RIGHT of the rock outcropping located lower down in the middle of the gully. Downclimb a short cliff at the bottom of the rock outcrop, then continue down and left towards the base of the Pino Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Pino Wall
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