Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Estrellita

Beat Around the Bush T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Sweep S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dom's Day Out T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Estrellita T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 110 ft
FA: David Hammack, Rico Meleski, 1976
Page Views: 6,958 total · 48/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


87 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A well protected crack on good rock. Touted by the Sandia Rock guide as "The best 5.8 in the Sandias". The crack begins at the right end of the formation and continues to a right facing dihedral. Midway up this dihedral (not far past a piece of fixed pro- an old stuck cam), you will step left, out of the dihedral, and onto the face. Continue up the crack system to the top of the climb.

Protection

Gear: 1 set of cams to #2, set of nuts.
Anchors: Gear (cams and nuts, cannot remember sizes.)
Descent: Walk off by scrambling into a gully at the southside of the formation. Easy fifth class downclimbing.

Photos

Nathan Kofahl
Albuquerque, NM
 
Nathan Kofahl   Albuquerque, NM
 
Great line. First trad lead. First trad Red Point. Lots of gear placement options. The climbing is pretty easy with great stances everywhere to place gear which means for a first time leader you can lace this thing up. There are also some really solid hand jams on this route.

I stepped out onto the face right above the stuck cam in the corner. There is a gear placement for a small cam over left shoulder just above the stuck cam. The stuck cam seemed pretty solid, so I clipped it. Not sure if that was wise or not, but I placed the smaller cam just above it near the point of the arete

The last 10 feet to the ledge is all jugs but at that point i didn't have much to protect it with so I ran it out. What are people using in this section?


May 13, 2016
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8
Really great line. Great gear placement no runout pretty easy to get to. We linked this route with Miss Piggy to get a feel for 5.8's in the area prior to doing the ~12 pitch Southwest Ridge climb. If my memory serves me correctly it is at the top of this route lies the location of La Luz mine which we explored. A local told us they were sealing the entrance in the next few weeks... Sep 9, 2014
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
An excellent climb. The top anchor takes large or medium nuts and hand/finger-ish sized cams. The walk off is mellow, no need for fixed pro on top. May 23, 2009
Mick S
Utah
 
Mick S   Utah
 
Bolts were chopped by a local who informed the bolter that they would be chopped. The chopping was justified IMO, it is very easy to walk off. The gear anchor is good. Jun 4, 2008
Ryan Smyth
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Ryan Smyth   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Awesome climb. Our first ever trad climb which makes it a favorite for sure. Great pro all the way up on some real solid rock. Reccommend to all. Guide books say there are bolt anchors at the top. There aren't. Be prepared to belay off of gear. Apr 30, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8
Super fun line with great pro, solid rock, good moves and easy access! Definitely recommended!

I did not see any pitons or other gear at the top of the formation to belay from. Perhaps I just didn't look hard enough but I'm guessing they've been removed. Jul 2, 2007
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
 
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
 
A pseudo 3-pitch climb can be done, when combing Estrellita with Miss Piggy. Once topping out on Estrellita walk off the formation and continue heading east for 20 yards, pass the La Luz mine and climb Miss Piggy; another 3-star 5.8 route 2 pitches in length. Dec 31, 2006