Description

South facing wall with a series of 40-50 foot routes. Quality of rock tends to be good here and routes range from easy 5.6 to difficult 5.12.

Getting There

See
Overview map of Major Wall area. Adapted from: The Enchanted Tower, Sport Climbing Socorro and Datil, New Mexico by Salomon R. Maestas and Matthew A. Jones, 1993. (Out of print). From the turn off highway 60, drive the dirt road for .5 miles to the main parking area (with restroom) on the left. Don't stop here, though. Continue another mile or so on the dirt road to a small pullout/parking area for Major Wall, Pocket Change Wall and Alcohol Wall. Park and walk the short distance to the visible Major Wall on the east side (left side) of the road.

Routes

From Left to Right:

Starting at the far left, there is a smooth, steep wall with three routes:

Major Chingadera (5.10d)
Pinche Wey (5.12c/d)
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy (5.14-)

Continuing along the cliff band you will come to a series of unknown routes, then some with actual names:

Cactus Practice (5.11b)
Unknown (5.11+)
Limp Traddy (5.12b?)
Unknown (5.13?)
Pimpin' anin't Easy (5.14b/c)
Keeping up with the Joneses (aka Pimp Daddy) (5.13d)
Bat out of Hell (5.11d)
The Demon (5.12d/13a)
Devil's Plaything (5.13?)
Major Raspberry (5.10d)
Captain Blueberry (5.11a)
Buttress Fly (5.10-)
Liberace's Anus (5.9+)
Prickly Proctologist (5.7+)
The Ramp (5.7)- Trad
She Can Bolt (5.9)
Bananas on Acid (5.12a)
Banana Peel (5.11c)
Hurt Me Not (5.12a/b)
Bon Bon (5.10a)
Juckets & Bugs (5.10a)
Chris's Route (name will change) (5.10-)
Milo Mindblender (5.10b)
Major, Major, Major (5.8)

25 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Major Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Major Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 38
She Can Bolt
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Liberace's Anus
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Juckets & Bugs
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Bon Bon
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Chris's Route (name will change)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Major Raspberry
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
Captain Blueberry
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 36
Banana Peel
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Bat out of Hell
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Hurt Me Not
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Bananas on Acid
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Pinche Wey
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 16
The Demon
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 4
Devil's Plaything
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Pimp Daddy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
She Can Bolt
 38
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Liberace's Anus
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Juckets & Bugs
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bon Bon
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Chris's Route (name will ch…
 25
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Major Raspberry
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Captain Blueberry
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Banana Peel
 36
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bat out of Hell
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hurt Me Not
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bananas on Acid
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pinche Wey
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Demon
 16
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Devil's Plaything
 4
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Pimp Daddy
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Major Wall »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Working backwards from 09) Pimp Daddy, the routes are...
08) Pimpin' anin't Easy 5.14b or c
07) Not sure of the name, Supposed to be 5.13, Timmy route
06) Not sure of the name, Supposed to be 5.12b but the start seemed more V8ish to 5.12 climbing, Timmy route
05) Not sure of the name, 5.11+
04?) There may actually be another route in here, but the one that starts on a crack/ramp that angles up and left 5.11- or + depending on which way you go. Jan 10, 2010
There are now 3 shorter bolted routes right of Major Major. Apr 11, 2017
The shorter routes are described under Tres Amigos.

mountainproject.com/v/tres-… Apr 11, 2017