The Original Route
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 328 votes
Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 14 pitches |
FA: | FA: Joe Herbst & Larry Hamilton - April, 1973FFA: Leo Henson & Dan McQuade - 199? |
Page Views: | 133,296 total · 527/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 19, 2004 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Overview
The Original Route on the Rainbow Wall is perhaps Red Rocks' finest. Sustained, technical climbing, flawless rock, corner after steep corner of stems, locks, and intricate face sequences, and generally good gear lends this climb classic status. In my opinion, all of those factors, combined with the ability to climb the route with a light rack and a single rope, an incredible view, and an approach that once kept the crowds away, make this a near perfect rock climbing experience.
Once and strangely still a popular aid route, the Original Route is now all-free. During the free ascent in the mid '90's, 40-some-odd bolts were added to the climb. This is absurd, and shortly thereafter all the bolts were chopped. Since then a handful of protection bolts have been replaced as well as bolted belays. It's too bad there are so many blemishes on the rock (both patched and unpatched bolt holes, and plenty of old relic bolts that need to be pulled). However, were it not for the scars from bashing pins, the route probably wouldn't go free at all.
Notes:
- A WAG bag should be standard equipment for any Red Rocks climber. Pick one up before you hike in there, use it, and hike it out with you when you're done.
- Squirrels have discovered that climbers leave food in packs at the base of the route all day. Squirrels can climb trees.
- The climb is north facing but gets some early morning sun, however, unless you start early and are very fast it will likely be outpacing you up the wall. Conversely, you can expect all day shade which is favorable on warmer days.
- The approach is semi-arduous, and though it can be done in around 1:30, picking a path through the drainage of Juniper Canyon can be challenging the first time.
- Once underneath the wall, steep slabs present a final obstacle, sometimes made easier by perennial fixed lines. If the lines aren't in place, the slab can be climbed at 5.2 left of the fall line. A bolted anchor above the steepest part of the slabs allows safe descent if you don't want to down-climb.
Description
The line is obvious: The major dihedral system in the center of the wall. A couple landmarks include the half-way ledge (Over the Rainbow Ledge) and the Red Dihedral - a striking left-facing corner at the top of the wall. The Original Route launches directly up into the corner system from below with a stout 12b pitch close to the deck, then follows some terraces up and right to Over the Rainbow Ledge and finally traverses back left and up to the Red Dihedral which is followed to the top of the wall.
The major variation to the climb is Dan McQuade's Rainbow Country (sandbag 5.12d) which straightens out the line by skipping the terraces leading up to Over the Rainbow Ledge in favor of some steep, hard face and crack pitches that link almost directly into the Red Dihedral. One should also note that Rainbow Country includes a variation to the left of the Original Route's first two pitches that avoids the 12b second pitch in favor of some very high quality 11c climbing and has become the de facto start due to it a little less stiff of a warmup.
A second major variation is the Swainbow Wall - basically an easy escape route that launches straight up from Over the Rainbow Ledge, avoiding the Red Dihedral altogether.
A sensible way to climb the route for the first time would be to climb the left-hand variation of pitches of the first two pitches, thus avoiding the 5.12b corner, then continuing with the Original Route to the top. On the last pitch of the Red Dihedral, one might consider taking a minor left-hand variation which is slightly easier (see the description for Pitch 13 below). This path would maximize the high-quality climbing while keeping the difficulty in check at around 5.12a.
For the greatest challenge, the route could be climbed via the right-hand variation of the first two pitches (5.12b), the Rainbow Country variation (5.12d), and then the right-hand variation of pitch 13 (5.12b).
P1&2 (12b or 11c): Two options:
1) Begin directly below the corner system and climb 5.6 ledges and face to a belay at a modern bolt and a quarter-incher. This short pitch of 5.6 can easily be linked into the next one. Continue up into the blank corner past two bolts. A reachy 5.12b move will get you to a bolted belay. Excellent climbing.
2) Alternatively, begin well left of this start and climb up a leaning corner system past six bolts (being careful getting to the first bolt) to the belay above the 5.12b section. This checks in at 5.11c and is also excellent.
P3 (11d): Step up into a wide layback immediately off the belay continuing through some decent stances. Head up the corner until reaching an obvious point to wildly step out right onto the face (the aid line goes straight up). Clip a bolt and then climb up the slightly past-vertical face past a second bolt before stepping back into the corner and continuing to a bolted belay. Sustained, reachy, awesome!
P4 (11-): Continue straight up the crack system. This pitch is much easier than the last. Belay at two bolts.
P5 (11-): Carefully ascend a long, hollow flake (decent gear), passing a bolt, then continue on easier ground up to a roof. Undercling and jam around it to the right. Skip the first anchor (just past the roof) which is used for rapping, and belay above at another bolted anchor. A long pitch.
P6 (10): Continue up the right facing corner, deciding whether to continue up the Original Route or to take the direct line of Rainbow Country. The rock is lower quality here but only slightly so. If following the original route, belay at some bolts by a small tree which at the start of the ledgy terrain.
P7, 8, & 9 (8): Perhaps best simul-climbed. Walk and scramble up and right and up and right, passing a few short, steep sections. There are two large, yellow left facing corners: The left has a couple bolts (Synthetic Happiness) and the right has a steep crack - you're aiming for the right. Above this there is another yellow corner with a wide-crack/squeeze chimney - up this, past an old star-drive bolt, and head immediately around the arete to the right and up an exposed but easy face to Over the Rainbow Ledge. The corners have a move or two of generally well-protected 5.9 here and there, but this stretch of climbing is mostly 3rd and 4th class.
P10 (7): Traverse straight left off the belay on narrow foot ledges. Exposed! Gear is not great here, but there is one old bolt and a cam placement or two. Out to the left there's a bolted anchor (optional belay) used for rapping, but you can continue up to the base of the huge left-facing corner above (the Red Dihedral). Belay at bolts.
P11 (12a): If you chose to avoid the 5.12b second pitch and Rainbow Country, this is the crux pitch. Although it is rated 11d, I believe it deserves 12a. Launch up the corner via liebacks, stems, and long reaches. The crux protected by a bomber glue-in bolt; creative stemming and reach helps here. Perhaps the best pitch on a climb full of amazing pitches.
P12 (12a): Continue up the corner with more of the same style of climbing. The first 20 feet are the hardest and it is more sustained than the previous pitch. High on the pitch there is a place to traverse left to a stance belay at a bolted anchor despite the obvious path (the old aid line) continuing up the corner. The traverse itself once had the potential for a nasty swing back into the corner, but a recently replaced bolt here has made it somewhat safer.
P13 (12b or 11a): Two options:
1) Traverse back into the corner and continue up to a stance beneath the roof. Move leftwards with creativity, trusting one's shoe rubber, eventually turning the roof system at its left end. 5.12b. This is a Rainbow Country variation.
2) Alternatively, from the belay downclimb and traverse left to a shallow left-facing corner. Climb up this to merge with the other variation just before it turns the roof. 5.11a. Both variations pull through the roof at the same point on decent gear and some fixed pro. Belay at bolts up in a cave/alcove or link into the last pitch.
P14 (10-): Pull through the top of the cave on flared hands and then continue up on easy ground, skipping a bolted belay out left (currently one bolt). A short low fifth-class scramble leads to the top of the wall and a newly-added bolted anchor.
Raps will take you generally down the route but sometimes onto the face to the left. The entire route can be rapped with a single 60m rope but a 70m makes it easier.
Rainbow Country
This basically makes an awesome climb completely superb by straightening out the line, avoiding all the ledgey crap, and adding several amazing pitches. First, do the harder starting pitch. Then, from the anchor at the top of P5, head up the right-facing corner, but instead of going right at the top, head up and left, skipping an intermediate anchor out left and heading up a system of steep flakes and cracks. Runner your gear well as there is rope drag. Belay at a bolted anchor above a huge hollow block. 5.11a, a long pitch. From here, head up a crazy overhanging chimney system. A few bolts protect. At the top, pull over a bulge (wild 5.11) on jugs to a bolted belay. Next is the crux (5.12d) pitch: Do some interesting face climbing sequences past a few bolts to a stance below a shallow right-facing corner. Using the corner and arete, perform a devious sequence up to a precarious stem. A few more moves lead to a thank-god hand jam and then a really exposed move back out onto the arete and up the wall above. 6 bolts and a single medium/large stopper placement near the top lead to a bolted belay. Finally, traverse straight right (5.12a move) past three bolts and then up into the Red Dihedral, belaying at the base of P11 as described above. Finish with the 12b upper Red Dihedral variation.
Swainbow Wall
This is an easy escape to the top of the wall from Over the Rainbow Ledge. I haven't climbed it and won't attempt to describe it. Does anyone climb it? Perhaps some emergency might dictate this but then again rapping the route is so easy.
Protection
Guidebooks generally recommend a full set of cams through #4 Camalot, a set of wires including RP's, and draws. I recommend:
1x 0.2 Camalot
2x 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 Camalots
1x 0.75, #1, #2, #3 Camalots
Wires
A dozen draws & slings
A single 60m rope is sufficient for getting up and getting down, but a 70 is nicer.
Strong parties can skip the #1, #2, and #3 Camalots, but you’ll be running it out on some non-trivial climbing, with some non-trivial consequences, in a couple places.
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