Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Lester, 1983
Page Views: 1,481 total · 10/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.

Location

Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.

Protection

Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11b PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11b PG13
Awesome TR after Gruff. You'll want a directional (green C3 worked). Would be a heady lead at the top...... Jul 6, 2011
Daniel Vakili
Los Angeles, CA
Daniel Vakili   Los Angeles, CA
I slung a horn with a sling on the ledge before the final thin face, so I knew I would technically be ok. got a small nut in before heading off up that face, feeling like a champ until pulling the last bulge. i looked down, and saw how far away that tiny little nut was, and there was NOTHING to place on my rack. I yelled "Jesus!". I was ready to bite that spicy pepper, but suddenly found a tiny blind nut placement around the corner, placed my last nut which I had pulled from a previous placement earlier on, and finished up with mild sauce. Sustained in the body, sustained in the mind, sustained in the soul. Aug 31, 2015
Carry blue ball nuts for the upper part and the whole thing is really safe!!

Also, the above mentioned horn is very loose. I highly discourage grabbing, let alone slinging that thing. There is a good cam/wire placement at torso height when standing on the ledge. Sep 17, 2015