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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Lester, 1983
Page Views: 1,342 total, 10/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.

Location

Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.

Protection

Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.

Photos

Carry blue ball nuts for the upper part and the whole thing is really safe!!

Also, the above mentioned horn is very loose. I highly discourage grabbing, let alone slinging that thing. There is a good cam/wire placement at torso height when standing on the ledge. Sep 17, 2015
I slung a horn with a sling on the ledge before the final thin face, so I knew I would technically be ok. got a small nut in before heading off up that face, feeling like a champ until pulling the last bulge. i looked down, and saw how far away that tiny little nut was, and there was NOTHING to place on my rack. I yelled "Jesus!". I was ready to bite that spicy pepper, but suddenly found a tiny blind nut placement around the corner, placed my last nut which I had pulled from a previous placement earlier on, and finished up with mild sauce. Sustained in the body, sustained in the mind, sustained in the soul. Aug 31, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11b PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11b PG13
Awesome TR after Gruff. You'll want a directional (green C3 worked). Would be a heady lead at the top...... Jul 6, 2011