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Areas in Foster Falls

Crime Buttress 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Dihedrals, The 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Dog Boy Village 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Gutbuster Area 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Jimmywood 3 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Left Bunker, The 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Main Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Music City/The 5.9 Area 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Paradox Wall 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Red Light District, The 2 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Rehab Slab 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Right Bunker, The 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Rocket Slab 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sanford Wall, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Snatch Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
So What Area 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Wall of Useless Conflict 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
White Wall 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Description

Foster Falls is a major destination for sport climbing in the south. Near the town of Jasper (just west of Chattanooga), it features high-quality sandstone and challenging climbing in a pleasant locale. Though you might want to stay away in the hottest or coldest seasons, Foster's season is pretty much year-round.

If you're just getting started as a leader, you can hone your skills on a few easy routes like Gravity Boots (5.7) or Jacob's Ladder (5.8). But the real fun at Fosters begins at 5.9 with favorites such as Ankles Away or Twist and Shout, and doesn't stop till you get to the ferociously overhung 5.13 routes in the Bunkers sections. There's a little something for everyone at Fosters.

Amenities include camping (fee-based), picnic facilities and bathrooms at the parking lot. There's also hiking trails if you need a break from climbing, and in the summer you can cool off in the pool at the base of the falls.

For routes not covered on MountainProject, the Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford is the definitive guidebook for Foster Falls.

Getting There

From Chattanooga, head west on I-24 past Nickajack Lake and get off at exit 155 (about 20 miles). Head north following the signs to the town of Jasper. Passing through the town, follow the signs for TN150/US41 north toward Tracy City. A landmark (at least for now, since its out of business) is the Mountain Mart on the left as you continue on TN150. The entrance to Foster Falls is on the left about three miles past the Mountain Mart.

128 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Foster Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gravity Boots
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jacob's Ladder
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saturated
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bear Mountain Picnic
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ankles Away
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mammy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Prissy
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Miss Scarlet
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish-eyed Fool
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Narcissism
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rode Hard, Put Up Wet
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Something's Always Wrong
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Standing Room Only
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wristlets
Sport
Gravity Boots Rocket Slab 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Jacob's Ladder Red Light District 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Saturated Jimmywood 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bear Mountain Picnic Jimmywood 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ankles Away Dihedrals 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mammy Jimmywood 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Miss Prissy Jimmywood 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Miss Scarlet Jimmywood 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Twist and Shout Dihedrals 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Fish-eyed Fool Sanford Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Narcissism Dihedrals 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rode Hard, Put Up Wet Rocket Slab 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Something's Always Wrong Right Bunker 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Standing Room Only Crime Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wristlets White Wall 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Foster Falls »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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this file contains exact crag locations, and can be imported into google earth:
thecrag.com/climbing/united…

Also, a PDF guide is available (not sure how good it is though):
thecrag.com/CIDS/cgi-bin/di… Jul 3, 2017
I'm gonna be there in 2 weeks. Any chance someone has the locations of the crags on Google my maps, and can share it with the group? Jul 1, 2017
Hey Zachj, we've climbed here once before and found mountainproject to be just useful enough but mostly very annoying. We're coming back tomorrow and this time have made a rough map of the area from the info extrapolated from MP. Here is a list of the areas in order, 'right to left', to the best of my knowledge...
From the falls trail:
White Wall
So what Area
Crime Buttress
Right Bunker
Left Bunker
The Dihedrals
Whole lot of breakdown and climber access one from the ridge (fiery gizzard) trail
Jimmywoods
Gutbuster Area
Sanford Wall
Rocket Slab
Rehab Slab
Snatch Wall
2nd access from the ridge trail
Red light district
Seasonal waterfall
Music city/5.9
Paradox Wall
Wall of Useless Conflict
Dogboy Village

Hope this helps you and whoever else comes here trying to decipher things. If anything is incorrect or out of date please feel free to correct me... preferably before tomorrow morning before I set out for round two of 'where in foster falls is...?' May 25, 2017
zachj  
I would highly recommend that someone who is familiar with this area either organize the climbing walls/location in relation to one another or provide a rough map that shows the location of the walls in relation to one another. Coming from someone who has only come here once before and trying to navigate these climbs I find it almost impossible. Every 2-5 climbs is considered a different crag and directions to each include descriptions such as, "Near Snatch" or "Just past White Wall". If you don't know where any particular wall is there is no way to tell how to get to any particular climb. Thanks for considering. May 9, 2017
Good morning all,

I will be traveling through the area on weekend of May 12-14, 2017 and am looking for a belay buddy. Anyone know of a group going out that weekend?

Best,
Faith Apr 22, 2017
Heres a video of me climbing there. Beautiful place.
youtube.com/watch?v=PwSEHmn… Mar 7, 2017
I haven't camped here since the state took it over but no beer policy is a turn off - prohibition ended sometime back - good gawd y'all! Google camping options look grim - no RV for me. Beta? Oct 4, 2016
The first night we discovered that the park has now changed their process in which you have to make reservations online before you are able to camp anywhere in the state park. Also, we learned that the two closest backcountry camping sites, Father Adamz (.5 mile from parking lot), and Small Wilde (just over 2 miles from parking lot), both require payments now to be able to camp there. This was regulated thoroughly by a park ranger that would walk the trail each night, checking the sites and making sure that every one was off of the trail by 30 minutes after sunset.
Climbing was decent. The concentrated 5.9 climbs in Jimmywood seemed a bit harder climbs for the 5.9 range. I highly recommend doing Saturated in Jimmywood. Was a fun high, 5.8 climb.

Our final day at the crag, we did a fun 4-5 mile out-&-back trail run down past both campsites and climber access points. Then we went down to the swimming hole of Foster Falls (the waterfall was dried up at this time) and swam and bouldered on the rock behind where the water fall is. Sep 19, 2016
chuckc  
Wanted to give a heads up to folks about the strict "No Alcohol" policy. The group camping next to us had a single canned beer out while quietly cooking dinner around dusk, and the ranger on duty crept up on them and had them pour out the open beer as well as all the beer in their cooler under threat of a fine or getting kicked out of the park. Rules are rules, but I've never seen this level of enforcement in a state park, so if you're going to imbibe, keep it in a cup and on the DL because there are some crusading rangers at this place. Apr 25, 2016


You can download a FREE Foster Falls Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-g…

Foster Falls Free Guide includes:
  • Driving & Approach Beta
  • Rules & Recommendations
  • Several days of route descriptions and recommendations
Oct 13, 2014
Bobby Hutton
Gold Country CA
Bobby Hutton   Gold Country CA
Kudos to the administrators of this page for taking the time to organize the routes into areas. Jun 9, 2014
khowe
Knoxville, TN
khowe   Knoxville, TN
Camping at Foster closed until further notice.

mountainproject.com/v/foste… Mar 16, 2014
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
How is Foster Falls in the summer? Is there enough shade to make it reasonable?
Thanks! Mar 4, 2014
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
OK Sam. That one is Crimp Knob 5.12- Sorry for the confusion. Mar 6, 2013
sam england
Seattle, WA
sam england   Seattle, WA
This felt much harder than 5.9 more like 5.12. I believe Milk Dudds is just right of Pilsbury (also has orange hangers). This was in between Pilsbury and Kids with Guns. Mar 4, 2013
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
Sam. The route with the orange hangers may be Milk Dudds. 5.9 Feb 25, 2013
sam england
Seattle, WA
sam england   Seattle, WA
Does anyone know anything about the route to the left of Pillsbury with the orange hangers? I did the route over the weekend and was interested in the name/rating. Thanks. Feb 20, 2013
I'm passing through Chattanooga September 19, 20 & 21 and looking for a sport climbing partner. Sep 18, 2012
Adam Lazaro
Hiram, Ga
Adam Lazaro   Hiram, Ga
Does anybody know if the campground is open. Any info that would be handy to know. We are planning on coming the first weekend in March Feb 21, 2012
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
Visited mid December and temps were mid 40s and sunny. Climbing was great. Found a couple of routes to be a bit sandbagged but in general had a great time and it was good climbing. Nights were down in the 30s and 20s so went to Chattanooga for dinner each night. Camped at Raccoon Mtn and we were the only campers. Bathrooms at Plot were super nice, as was signage and falls. Congrats to South Cumberland group for doing a great job with this crag~ Dec 21, 2010
Hey Everyone,

Just wondering what temps could I expect here in mid-Feb? Just trying to plan a winter climbing trip. It seems like T-Wall would be good to go, and I was wondering if I could squeeze in some sport climbing as well. I'm not expecting t-shirt weather, but I don't want to climb in real cold conditions either (I can do that here at home!). Thanks.

Mike Oct 22, 2009
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
I agree, very nice. Nov 8, 2008
Robert Dominguez
Birmingham, AL
Robert Dominguez   Birmingham, AL
The most beautiful place I've ever climbed--camp @ Father Adamz, have a good time. Feb 11, 2008

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