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Dog Boy Village Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Dog Boy Village

L › R R › L A › Z

	Everybody Knows Fire S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Golden Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Half Beast S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Half Man S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Secret passage S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

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Elevation:	1,122 ft	342 m
GPS:	35.1797, -85.69099 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,234 total · 47/month
Shared By:	Matthew Bishop on Feb 22, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas Details

Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.

Description

Another Foster Falls gem with a mix of climbs for everyone: ranging from 5.9 - 12c there is something here for everyone in your party. Just past the Paradox Wall, it is a great alternative if you're looking to change it up a bit. One of the few areas in Foster Falls with baby multi-pitch lines. 60M rope at minimum, and at least 6-12 draws required for most climbs.

Routes right to left:

Secret Passage 12a
Half Man 10c
Half Beast 11a (starts on ledge above Half Man - same bolt line)

(Half Man and Half Beast make a small multi-pitch climb)

Golden Girl 10c
Prison of the Mind 12c (starts on ledge above and to the right of Golden Girl) *(GG and PoM make a small multi-pitch climb)

Everybody Knows Fire 9
Finding the Trust 10d
The Process 12a
Wolf Boy 11+

Chestnutt's Route 12a
Dead Battery 12a
Unknown 12a

Getting There

Use the climbers second access point (one with the legit staircase) on the rim trail. From here walk down the trail to the base of the cliff line. If you are facing up were the staircase is located, take a left and follow the trail down the cliff line. You will pass the Red Light District in a few minutes. Keep walking along the trail were you will reach a waterfall (seasonal - winter). Gaze intimately into the flowing water for a bit; then continue over the stream and along the trail hugging the cliff line. In about 5 mins, you will walk past the soon to be ionic "Holy War (5.9)" on the Wall of Useless Conflict - from here you are about 5 mins from the wall.
5 mins from "Holy War"
10 mins from Waterfall (seasonal)

Look for a small cave at the base of the cliff line (20ft deep, 5ft height) once you see the cave, the climb just to the right of it will be Everybody Knows Fire (5.9). From were you are standing, you are in the middle of the Dog Boy Village district.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dog Boy Village

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 21 ● Everybody Knows Fire Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 12 ● Golden Girl Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Half Man Sport