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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bold Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Blake Green September 2015
Page Views: 404 total · 12/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Oct 1, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

You might want to sign a DNR before attempting the onsight of this one! Fun gorge stemming gives way to big moves on positive face holds at a midway transition into a shallow corner system left of Resuscitation. While the route takes ample safe gear, it is small, specific, and missing any placement in the first 40 feet will likely commit the climber to irreversible moves in no fall territory.

Listed as 36. Project (5.12?) in the Watts guide, this route was previously abandoned because "there's reason to believe that a hanging column the size of a couple Coke Machines might fall out someday."

Rather than getting anywhere near the sketchy column, this route breaks right into a shallow corner system and good face holds at about mid height. A new set of anchors has been added to accomodate the position of the new finish.

Location

Between Resuscitation and White Trash. Break right before the hanging column.

Protection

Minimum one set each DMM brass offsets and ballnuts #1-#3. Doubles in both would not go unappreciated. A single set of normal wires and C3's gives ample options and covers the most confidence inspiring placements.

Photos

This one's easy enough to set up off of Bold Line, Resuscitation, or possibly even White Trash extension.

Edit: 7/1/16 I toproped this route yesterday, second time actually doing the moves on the pitch. Without the fear of leading it, I was really reminded how good the moves are! This thing is definitely a worthwhile tick among gorge 11s. The fear factor would definitely be pretty minimal as a headpoint; there's definitely harder 5.11 stemming and sketchier gear to be found in the gorge. Oct 13, 2015

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