Elevation: 673 ft
GPS: 37.507, -88.682 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 798,851 total · 4,720/month
Shared By: Ethan on Aug 30, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Dave Hug

Description

Jackson falls has the largest number of climbing routes in Illinois. Located in a forest canyon the 30-70 foot walls offer slopers, various sized pockets, roofs, and slabs. Jackson Falls is in the Shawnee National Forest in southern Illinois. It can get hot and humid in the summer but there's plenty of shade.

Here's a map based loosely off the map in the Ulner guide, but done from memory. Red ATCs represent accessible anchors for rap points, brown paths over the cliff represent places I know are safe to scramble in. Blue is the creek bed, and brown are the cut across paths. The paths2013-09-289508.53.34.jpg2013-09-289508.53.34.jpg on the bottom and top of the cliff are not marked

Breakdown of all the roped climbing areas for reference.

Resources

[[Illinois Climbers Association]]ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois


HELP THE ICA REBOLT JACKSON FALLS! PLEASE DONATE
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's re-bolting cause.

Getting There

From I24 turn North on highway 45 turn right (East) on Ozark road for about 4.5 miles. Turn left on Trigg Tower Road to the first farmhouse and turn right. The parking is about 2 miles down the dirt road just before crossing the creek.

Coming from the south, you can access Glen St Falls Road from Pope Co Road 2260.  However, it will require an off-road vehicle.

Guidebooks

In Illinois there are 3 guide books for the southern portion of the state. The first is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland.

Vertical Heartland 3rd Edition

His guide is a good representation of the legal climbing destinations in the state and primarily focus on sport and traditional climbing.

The second is Matt Bliss's book Sandstone Warrior.

Sandstone Warrior

His guide beautifully lays out the majority of the bouldering found in S.I. and includes quality color photos to aid in your boulder problem deciphering. These two guides provide you with all the necessary tools to navigate our local crags. Pick them up and go enjoy the climbing that Illinois has to offer.

The newest guide:

http://www.brayackmedia.com/jfalls/jfalls_buy.html

520 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jackson Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 103
Yosemite Slab
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 186
Stubborn Swede
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 176
Fine Nine
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Groovy Marcia!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 186
Cheerio Bowl
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 149
Venom
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 117
Earthbound Misfit
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 112
Spiders From Mars
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 108
Who Let the Snakes Out
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 174
Group Therapy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 134
Lovely Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 113
Wild at Heart
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 93
Detox Mountain
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Hidden Treasures
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 72
Everybody Needs Friends
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yosemite Slab Z. Bouldering i… > Yosemite Slab
 103
V0 4 Boulder
Stubborn Swede E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > E The Monument
 186
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fine Nine C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 176
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Groovy Marcia! E S Canyon > I. The Ranch
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cheerio Bowl E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > D. Pricker Peak
 186
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Venom A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy
 149
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Earthbound Misfit B. W Falls > A. The Gallery
 117
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Spiders From Mars A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy
 112
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Who Let the Snakes Out C. N Falls > B. Snakes Roof
 108
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Group Therapy B. W Falls > A. The Gallery
 174
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lovely Arete C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 134
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wild at Heart A. N Canyon > I. Railroad Rock
 113
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Detox Mountain E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > C. Cranial/Detox Wall
 93
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hidden Treasures C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Everybody Needs Friends A. N Canyon > D. Beaver Wall
 72
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jackson Falls »

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