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Elevation: 673 ft 205 m
GPS: 37.5066, -88.6816
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Shared By: Ethan on Aug 30, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Dave Hug, Kevin Sierzega

Description Suggest change

Jackson falls has the largest number of climbing routes in Illinois. Located in a forest canyon the 30-70 foot walls offer slopers, various sized pockets, roofs, and slabs. Jackson Falls Recreation Area is in the Shawnee National Forest on USFS land in southern Illinois. It can get hot and humid in the summer but there's plenty of shade.

In 2016, the Illinois Climbers Association partnered with the USFS Shawnee National Forest to manage the climbing resources on site. The ICA tackles hardware replacement, re bolting of existing routes to stainless steel using the highest standards available, and trail work. As of 2023, the ICA re bolted over 80 climbs at Jackson Falls. Please contact ICA to see how you can get involved!

Resources Suggest change


Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois


HELP THE ICA REBOLT JACKSON FALLS! PLEASE DONATE
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's re-bolting cause.

Getting There

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From I24 turn North on highway 45 turn right (East) on Ozark road for about 4.5 miles. Turn left on Trigg Tower Road to the first farmhouse and turn right. The parking is about 2 miles down the dirt road just before crossing the creek.

Coming from the south, you can access Glen St Falls Road from Pope Co Road 2260.  However, it will require an off-road vehicle.

Guidebooks

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In Illinois there are 3 guide books for the southern portion of the state. The first is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland.

His guide is a good representation of the legal climbing destinations in the state and primarily focus on sport and traditional climbing.

The second is Matt Bliss's book Sandstone Warrior.

His guide beautifully lays out the majority of the bouldering found in S.I. and includes quality color photos to aid in your boulder problem deciphering. These two guides provide you with all the necessary tools to navigate our local crags. Pick them up and go enjoy the climbing that Illinois has to offer.

The newest guidebook (2015, by Brayackmedia Publishing):

https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/jackson-falls/

554 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jackson Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 144
Yosemite Slab
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 231
Stubborn Swede
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Groovy Marcia!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 229
Cheerio Bowl
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Venom
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 134
Spiders From Mars
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 129
Who Let the Snakes Out
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 212
Group Therapy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 154
Lovely Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 146
Wild at Heart
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 71
Blue Velvet
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 123
Detox Mountain
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 115
Hidden Treasure
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 85
Everybody Needs Friends
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
The Reckoning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yosemite Slab Z. Bouldering i… > Yosemite Slab
 144
V0 4 Boulder
Stubborn Swede E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > E The Monument
 231
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Groovy Marcia! E S Canyon > I. The Ranch
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cheerio Bowl E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > D. Pricker Peak
 229
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Venom A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Spiders From Mars A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy
 134
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Who Let the Snakes Out C. N Falls > B. Snakes Roof
 129
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Group Therapy B. W Falls > A. The Gallery
 212
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lovely Arete C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 154
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wild at Heart A. N Canyon > I. Railroad Rock
 146
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blue Velvet A. N Canyon > I. Railroad Rock
 71
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Detox Mountain E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > C. Cranial/Detox Wall
 123
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hidden Treasure C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 115
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Everybody Needs Friends A. N Canyon > D. Beaver Wall
 85
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Reckoning B. W Falls > D. Battle Axe Tower
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jackson Falls »

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