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Elevation: 673 ft
GPS: 37.5066, -88.6816
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Ethan on Aug 30, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Dave Hug, Kevin Sierzega

Description Suggest change

Jackson falls has the largest number of climbing routes in Illinois. Located in a forest canyon the 30-70 foot walls offer slopers, various sized pockets, roofs, and slabs. Jackson Falls Recreation Area is in the Shawnee National Forest on USFS land in southern Illinois. It can get hot and humid in the summer but there's plenty of shade.

In 2016, the Illinois Climbers Association partnered with the USFS Shawnee National Forest to manage the climbing resources on site. The ICA tackles hardware replacement, re bolting of existing routes to stainless steel using the highest standards available, and trail work. As of 2023, the ICA re bolted over 80 climbs at Jackson Falls. Please contact ICA to see how you can get involved!

Here's a map based loosely off the map in the Ulner guide, but done from memory. Red ATCs represent accessible anchors for rap points, brown paths over the cliff represent places I know are safe to scramble in. Blue is the creek bed, and brown are the cut across paths. The paths2013-09-289508.53.34.jpg2013-09-289508.53.34.jpg on the bottom and top of the cliff are not marked

Breakdown of all the roped climbing areas for reference.

Resources Suggest change

[[Illinois Climbers Association]] ilclimbers.org
Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois


HELP THE ICA REBOLT JACKSON FALLS! PLEASE DONATE
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's re-bolting cause.

Getting There

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From I24 turn North on highway 45 turn right (East) on Ozark road for about 4.5 miles. Turn left on Trigg Tower Road to the first farmhouse and turn right. The parking is about 2 miles down the dirt road just before crossing the creek.

Coming from the south, you can access Glen St Falls Road from Pope Co Road 2260.  However, it will require an off-road vehicle.

Guidebooks

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In Illinois there are 3 guide books for the southern portion of the state. The first is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland.

Vertical Heartland 3rd Edition

His guide is a good representation of the legal climbing destinations in the state and primarily focus on sport and traditional climbing.

The second is Matt Bliss's book Sandstone Warrior.

Sandstone Warrior

His guide beautifully lays out the majority of the bouldering found in S.I. and includes quality color photos to aid in your boulder problem deciphering. These two guides provide you with all the necessary tools to navigate our local crags. Pick them up and go enjoy the climbing that Illinois has to offer.

The newest guidebook (2015, by Brayackmedia Publishing):

https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/jackson-falls/

554 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jackson Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 141
Yosemite Slab
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 224
Stubborn Swede
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 103
Groovy Marcia!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 225
Cheerio Bowl
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Venom
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 134
Spiders From Mars
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 125
Who Let the Snakes Out
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 208
Group Therapy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 151
Lovely Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 144
Wild at Heart
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 70
Blue Velvet
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 119
Detox Mountain
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 114
Hidden Treasure
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 85
Everybody Needs Friends
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
The Reckoning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yosemite Slab Z. Bouldering i… > Yosemite Slab
 141
V0 4 Boulder
Stubborn Swede E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > E The Monument
 224
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Groovy Marcia! E S Canyon > I. The Ranch
 103
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cheerio Bowl E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > D. Pricker Peak
 225
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Venom A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Spiders From Mars A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy
 134
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Who Let the Snakes Out C. N Falls > B. Snakes Roof
 125
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Group Therapy B. W Falls > A. The Gallery
 208
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lovely Arete C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 151
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wild at Heart A. N Canyon > I. Railroad Rock
 144
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blue Velvet A. N Canyon > I. Railroad Rock
 70
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Detox Mountain E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > C. Cranial/Detox Wall
 119
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hidden Treasure C. N Falls > D. Lovely Tower
 114
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Everybody Needs Friends A. N Canyon > D. Beaver Wall
 85
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Reckoning B. W Falls > D. Battle Axe Tower
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jackson Falls »

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