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Routes in A. Mr. Jimmy

Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimichonga S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Mess with the Bull S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lucky Bastard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luscious Babes S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Off Web T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piss Ant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Screamery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spiders From Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stinger Direct S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Venom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Voice, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Which Side Are You On? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Eric Ulner '91
Page Views: 5,554 total · 43/month
Shared By: Coleman M on Nov 25, 2007
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

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Description

The physical crux is down low, but the mental crux is the upper slab. Pull a couple easy moves to the crux. Pull over the lip to super thin and technical slab climbing at it's finest.

Location

twenty feet right of Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack

Protection

Around five bolts.

Photos

FA: Eric Ulner '91 Nov 6, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
This is a classic technical slab! Nov 28, 2010
ATX
ATX  
Sandbagged! The feet are poor at the second bolt; falling guarantees a deck. Once you're over the roof (10d?), the hands disappear and there are no feet (11a?). Every single move on Venom was at least 5.10d. FWIW, I fell twice on this route, yet onsighted:
The Reckoning (5.12a)
Wild at Heart (11b)
Barbarians at the Gate (12a)
Blue Velvet (11+)
The Drifter (11a)
Yuppie with a Gun (11a)
Piss Ant (11b), &
Stinger Direct (11a/b)

In general, Jackson Falls grading seems arbitrary; for example, how is the completely horizontal roof route Who Let the Snakes Out a 5.10b?

Overall, enjoyed the climbing, but the grading was generally arbitrary. Aug 31, 2015
Daniel Hogan  
 
great climb. took a while to get the send. the upper slab is where i had the most problems. so glad to have checked this in my guide book! Dec 28, 2015
This is a solid 10a, but it can highly technical and a little bit of beta can go a long way. This would be the ideal route for someone trying to hone their technical skills instead of just powering through all the climbs. A definite So. Ill. classic. Apr 1, 2018

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