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Routes in A. Mr. Jimmy

Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimichonga S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Mess with the Bull S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lucky Bastard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luscious Babes S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Off Web T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piss Ant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Screamery T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spiders From Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stinger Direct S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Voice, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Which Side Are You On? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Eric Ulner '91
Page Views: 5,455 total · 43/month
Shared By: Coleman M on Nov 25, 2007
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

The physical crux is down low, but the mental crux is the upper slab. Pull a couple easy moves to the crux. Pull over the lip to super thin and technical slab climbing at it's finest.

Location [Edit]

twenty feet right of Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack

Protection [Edit]

Around five bolts.

Photos

FA: Eric Ulner '91 Nov 6, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
This is a classic technical slab! Nov 28, 2010
ATX
ATX  
Sandbagged! The feet are poor at the second bolt; falling guarantees a deck. Once you're over the roof (10d?), the hands disappear and there are no feet (11a?). Every single move on Venom was at least 5.10d. FWIW, I fell twice on this route, yet onsighted:
The Reckoning (5.12a)
Wild at Heart (11b)
Barbarians at the Gate (12a)
Blue Velvet (11+)
The Drifter (11a)
Yuppie with a Gun (11a)
Piss Ant (11b), &
Stinger Direct (11a/b)

In general, Jackson Falls grading seems arbitrary; for example, how is the completely horizontal roof route Who Let the Snakes Out a 5.10b?

Overall, enjoyed the climbing, but the grading was generally arbitrary. Aug 31, 2015
Daniel Hogan  
 
great climb. took a while to get the send. the upper slab is where i had the most problems. so glad to have checked this in my guide book! Dec 28, 2015
This is a solid 10a, but it can highly technical and a little bit of beta can go a long way. This would be the ideal route for someone trying to hone their technical skills instead of just powering through all the climbs. A definite So. Ill. classic. Apr 1, 2018

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