Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jim Thurmond and Alan Carrier 1987
Page Views: 5,409 total · 39/month
Shared By: whipplejw on Sep 25, 2007
Admins: chris tregge, Dave Hug

You & This Route

98 Opinions

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Where Lovely Tower and the Wave Wall form the Lovely Hallway, this is the obvious arete. A bouldery start to the first bolt leads to the meat. Fun stuff.


Four bolts to an anchor. The fourth bolt is most useful as a directional for a toprope, as the anchor is set well back in a funky spot.


Felt like 11.b, but it was in the heat of summer with sweaty hands. Sep 7, 2008
  5.11a PG13
  5.11a PG13
Beautiful climb, spot on 5.11a. Super classic. Sep 22, 2008
Kevin W. Corcoran  
This is a serious .11a. It's in your face, right off of the ground, with a moderately high first bolt and a boulder right behind the base of the climb. Short, but pumpy. Felt hard for the grade. Oct 19, 2008
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a PG13
The only place that I felt like I would deck if I blew it was clipping the second bolt, but my opinion is that it would be hard for anyone who could climb to that stance to fall from it. It's a little heady and probably (if barely) deserves the PG13. Nov 3, 2014
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
5.11a PG13
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
5.11a PG13
I think PG-13 is more than fair -- if you blow it clipping the second bolt, your back / head is problably going to land right on the boulder behind you while in free fall. You'd be lucky to be walking, for sure.

I do agree that clipping the second bolt is considerably easier than getting past the first one (which is wiggling around an awful lot at the moment).

Fun climb though! Oct 17, 2016
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
Highly overrated climb! Probably a 2 star climb, in my opinion. Also, why in the world is the bolt at the top not lower...it makes no sense that you put a bolt like a foot below the anchors...I just passed it but the slab before that could use a bolt to not have such a run to the anchor. Overrated but worth doing! Here comes the Snakes, the 5.9 behind this, the 12a to the right of this, and the 12 c on the other side of this boulder are all much much better and actually flow! May 8, 2017
Kevin La Forge
Kevin La Forge  
I would not be too worried about the boulder. I've seen quite a few people take the fall going to bolt 2. You have to remember that gravity pulls straight down. With that in mind, don't jump out while you fall.

This is a fabulous climb on fantastic stone. This, Captain Crunch, and Fashionably Late are the routes to target if you're looking for the 11a grade at the falls. Sep 20, 2018
Ross Caputo  
Chris Schmick led this on tricams back in the day. Nov 5, 2018