Mountain Project Logo

Routes in C. Lovely Tower

Dog Ran Away, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fine Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goblin Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Treasures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lefty Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lithuanian Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Innocence S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lovely Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Me Gusta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Split Decision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Velvet Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Thugs V9-10 7C+
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jim Thurmond and Alan Carrier 1987
Page Views: 4,879 total · 39/month
Shared By: whipplejw on Sep 25, 2007
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

You & This Route


79 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Where Lovely Tower and the Wave Wall form the Lovely Hallway, this is the obvious arete. A bouldery start to the first bolt leads to the meat. Fun stuff.

Protection

Four bolts to an anchor. The fourth bolt is most useful as a directional for a toprope, as the anchor is set well back in a funky spot.

Photos

Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Highly overrated climb! Probably a 2 star climb, in my opinion. Also, why in the world is the bolt at the top not lower...it makes no sense that you put a bolt like a foot below the anchors...I just passed it but the slab before that could use a bolt to not have such a run to the anchor. Overrated but worth doing! Here comes the Snakes, the 5.9 behind this, the 12a to the right of this, and the 12 c on the other side of this boulder are all much much better and actually flow! May 8, 2017
Climb Soft Spray Hard
Colorado Springs
5.11a PG13
Climb Soft Spray Hard   Colorado Springs
5.11a PG13
I think PG-13 is more than fair -- if you blow it clipping the second bolt, your back / head is problably going to land right on the boulder behind you while in free fall. You'd be lucky to be walking, for sure.

I do agree that clipping the second bolt is considerably easier than getting past the first one (which is wiggling around an awful lot at the moment).

Fun climb though! Oct 17, 2016
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a PG13
The only place that I felt like I would deck if I blew it was clipping the second bolt, but my opinion is that it would be hard for anyone who could climb to that stance to fall from it. It's a little heady and probably (if barely) deserves the PG13. Nov 3, 2014
Kevin W. Corcoran  
  5.11b
This is a serious .11a. It's in your face, right off of the ground, with a moderately high first bolt and a boulder right behind the base of the climb. Short, but pumpy. Felt hard for the grade. Oct 19, 2008
CurtisG
  5.11a PG13
CurtisG  
  5.11a PG13
Beautiful climb, spot on 5.11a. Super classic. Sep 22, 2008
Felt like 11.b, but it was in the heat of summer with sweaty hands. Sep 7, 2008

More About Lovely Arete

Printer-Friendly Guide