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Elevation: 1,776 ft 541 m
GPS: 35.16254, -85.67108
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Shared By: FosterFallsRanger on Mar 6, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend
Warning Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Denny Cove is a popular climbing and hiking area within South Cumberland State Park (SCSP), just south of Foster Falls. With around 1.5 mile of cliffline, it's a large climbing area with dozens of individual sub-crags and routes of all grades. Hikers also frequent the area, walking to the overlook above Denny East, to the waterfall at the head of the cove, or along the cliffline trail.

Denny Cove is divided into two main climbing sectors, Denny East (climber's right) and Denny West (climber's left). The main trail drops from the top of the bluff into the cove and splits the cliffline into these two sectors. Denny West offers a good concentration of more moderate routes (but still plenty up to 5.12+), multiple sectors including a trad zone, and a shorter approach. Denny East extends for a mile or more, and breaks down into many sub-areas, including the showpiece Buffet Wall, but countless others well deserving of attention.

The climbing's fantastic and it's a destination-worthy crag with standout routes and sectors, like Buffet Wall. Climbing terrain and rock vary, from wildly steep bunkers to techy faces, and a few cracks here and there. Rock quality also covers the Cumberland spectrum, from chunky, blocky choss to perfect, bullet hard panels and tiers--often all in one route. Overall, route and rock quality are great, and if you've been to Foster Falls, Little River Canyon or Obed, you'll feel right at home (with your stick clip too). There are more than 100 routes currently, with great potential for more in the future, especially in the moderate range. Information on the process of installing new routes can be found on the Southeastern Climbers Coalition website.

Denny Cove is a great climbing-conservation success story for TN. The area became a state park through a conservation effort led by SCC, Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Land Trust for TN. This group mobilzed a purchase of the entire 685 acre cove, buying the area from a timber company. Financial support came from funders like Open Space Institute, Lyndhurst Foundation, Benwood Foundation, High Point Climbing & Fitness, Stone Summit climbing gym, and countless donations from the wider climbing community. SCC temporarily held the property, and Access Fund and SCC teamed up to build the parking lot, improve the road, and build the entire trail system now used and enjoyed by climbers and hikers. An army of climbing volunteers and the Access Fund Conservation Team pushed this effort to completion. With TN's support, the area became a new state park in 2017.

The gate closes 30 minutes after sunset CENTRAL time. Please plan accordingly.

Please follow all Tennessee State Park rules and regulations during your visit. Do the daily climbing registration permit--it's easy and online.

http://tnstateparks.com/about/policies

For questions about Denny Cove please feel free to stop by the South Cumberland State Park Visitor Center. We are located at 11745 US 41 Monteagle, TN 37356 (appx. 25 minutes from Denny Cove). You can also call us anytime between the 8 and 4:30 (931-924-2980)

Getting There Suggest change

The entrance to Denny Cove is located appx. 1.5 miles south of the entrance to Foster Falls on HWY41/150. There is a Foster Falls Volunteer Fire Department building across the street from the entrance.

124 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Denny Cove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 155
Three Star Salad Bar
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 34
Will Feral
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Gas Powered Flight
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Copperhead Road
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 60
One Legged Red
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 72
Canned Heat
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Pressure Cooker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Empire of Dirt
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 88
Magic Meat
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 44
Dalai Lama
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Flash Fried
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
Mutatious
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 31
Homecooked
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 44
Meat and Three
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
Mighty Quinn
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Three Star Salad Bar Denny East > Salad Bar
 155
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Will Feral Denny East > Pig Wall
 34
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gas Powered Flight Denny East > Salad Bar
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Copperhead Road Denny West > Big Tex Cave
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
One Legged Red Denny East > Corner Pocket
 60
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Canned Heat Denny East > Buffet Wall
 72
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pressure Cooker Denny East > Buffet Wall
 62
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Empire of Dirt Denny East > Buffet Wall
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Magic Meat Denny East > Buffet Wall
 88
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Dalai Lama Denny East > Buffet Wall
 44
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flash Fried Denny East > Buffet Wall
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Mutatious Denny East > Buffet Wall
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Homecooked Denny East > Buffet Wall
 31
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Meat and Three Denny East > Buffet Wall
 44
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mighty Quinn Denny East > Buffet Wall
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Denny Cove »

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