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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bold Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Peder Groseth, July 2016
Page Views: 353 total · 13/month
Shared By: Peder Groseth on Jul 16, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The improbable looking face right of Bold Line. Begin with the first bolt clipped and immediately start into the delicate, yet powerful crux. Summon your Shaolin mind control and command your feet to the blank wall as you slap up the arete. Next, battle two tiny pockets, one so sharp it would bring a single tear to Hattori Hanzo's eye. Float left to the slot hold at the second bolt where you meet up with Body Karate. Congratulations, you've just mastered the most difficult climbing in the Lower Gorge; now continue sparring your way to the chains on the 2nd hardest route.

Location

Directly right of the start to Bold Line/Body Karate.

Protection

8 bolts to chains

Photos

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Sick! Good work Peder! Jul 30, 2016
Blake Allen Green  
  5.13b
This route is interesting in that the opening boulder requires a skill set akin to climbing on the Tuff--mad pocket finger strength and straight stab power--while the upper crux on the original Body Karate is the quintessential Gorge technique problem.

Even though the crux pockets are a tad sharp, this line is a pretty cool addition to the gorge, given that there are only just barely enough holds for all the features to link together naturally and into a single cohesive line. Not to mention this part of the wall was the single hole in route density for the Wildfire wall, and all along it had many challenging and unique lines embedded right in front of us.

I'm pretty sure an independent, direct finish would go from the Kung Fu Hustle start straight up the face/right arete and into the moderate corner above. This line would likely be comparable to or harder than Kung Fu Hustle and justify its own anchors under the roof at the top of the corner. In September of 2015 I did some initial cleaning of this line but never installed anchors or attempted the moves. Feb 18, 2017

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