Type: Trad, Aid, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Unkown. Ben Maxfield tried to do this as an FA back in the day, but found evidence of previous nailing.
Page Views: 202 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Sep 6, 2022
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

This is an aid variation to Toothless Grin. It stays completely dry in the rain and makes a great practice nailing route on a stormy day. Please do not nail the upper section of this route that shares ground with Toothless, as this is part of the free route.                                     Start on a good fixed head of the ground. Place a cam in a horizontal crack and launch into the steep, left trending crack. Small cams and nailing on lost arrows brings you to a final fixed head. From hear, reach up and left into Toothless Grin and get a finger sized cam. Aid up on cams and nuts to reach the bolted anchor. This has a lot of potential to go clean, I would bring a lot of doubles in small, offset cams.

Location Suggest change

The left trending thin crack, immediately right of Toothless Grin

Protection Suggest change

Lost arrows, lots of small cams from 0.1 to 0.5, nuts, offset nuts, draws. 2 fixed heads.