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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Steve Damboise, Jerry Handren, Duncan McCallum, Nick Yardley, Greg McCausland, Andy Ross, & Ronald Reagan May 13, 1988.
Page Views: 4,440 total, 42/month
Shared By: matthew ritter on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Romper Room is a top notch climb that I feel is on par with the more popular, Eyeless in Gaza. I guess all the first ascentionists reached the anchor at precisely the same moment, back when men were men. Approximately 10-15 feet of awkward, blocky but fun 5.6ish climbing leads to the first bolt and a stance. Clip the next bolt above your head and come back down to view the crux, a bouldery, balancy set of moves up to a small roof. Keep your balance for the third clip, pull over the roof, and enjoy the sustained and blissful face above. I agree with Jay Knower who wrote in his description of Yellow Matter Custard that, "Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one."

Location

Yellow Matter Buttress, just right of Yellow Matter Custard, just left of a wet, dirty crack.

Protection

6 bolts. Bolted anchor and chains.

Photos

Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
To continue Jason's warning, in addition to paying attention to your shins or mouth, you should also pay attention to the most delicate parts in between. A female friend of mine fell, and one leg ended up above the roof while one swung below. Ouch. May 7, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Definitely on par with Eyeless. Great sport route! Apr 21, 2013
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Be careful not to smash your shins (or your mouth) on the lip of the roof if you fall off above it. It's nice to have a top-notch belayer that can either pay out some slack, or reel some in, depending where you fall from. Better yet, just don't let go and send! Jul 31, 2010