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Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Attrosity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midnight Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mithras S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Police and Thieves T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Summer Teeth T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toothless Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Andy Ross April, 1991
Page Views: 2,327 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

An awkward route that has a way of suckering you into thinking it is way easier than the grade implies.

This route is positively unique for Sundown--It ascends a blocky dike that overhangs and leans ever-so-gently to the left. The first 20 feet are mellow, then the sucker-punch comes right after the 2nd bolt. It mellows out a bit after the crux.

Dikenstein is a "good" warm-up for the harder sport routes to the right of it (Yellow Matter Custard, 13a; and Romper Room, 12a).

Location

At the far left end of the cliff, at the height of the approach trail to cliff.

Protection

3 bolts and a fixed anchor.

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11c
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11c
Did something break on this route? Got on it yesterday and seems MUCH harder than before. I don't remember the deadpoint/dyno in the middle. Still fun after a rain! Jun 21, 2010
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
counterintuitive but when you figure out the move its pretty easy. good warm up May 31, 2011
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
  5.11c
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
  5.11c
Very fun climb, get on it. Sep 5, 2016

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