Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff

Agent Orange T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Agronaut, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Head S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bete Noir T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Papa T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Rip, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Temps Rouler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance Connection S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Davey Jones Locker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dikenstein S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the Tether T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyeless in Gaza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frigid Relations S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mithras S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pastryworks S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pointy Teeth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Promised Land, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Razor Crack T C1
Romper Room S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rough Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sewer Rat T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Shadowline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
She's Crafty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiletto T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundog Delight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tar and Feather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Tits Out for the Lads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vanishing Point S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vultures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Matter Custard S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad
FA: Equipped by Brady Libby, FA by Tim Deroehn, Sept 2009
Page Views: 1,877 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Big Papa is a route that was hiding in plain sight until its first ascent this fall. It climbs the striking, overhanging crack just to the left of Banana Head in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff.

Start by climbing up blocky rock, clip a bolt, and do a few face moves to gain the crack. The crack is very steep, angling, and offset. These three characteristics conspire to create a physical and gymnastic crack climb.

To finish, top out on a sloping ledge and clip a two bolt anchor.

Protection

One bolt, #3 Camalot, and smaller cams.

Photos

David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
CHAD TRY HARDER Dec 31, 2012
Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
I agree with David. Fantasticly gymnastic crack climb (at least with my beta). Took a session to figure out moves, and another to figure out gear (BTW I also use a #4 cam). Now I just have to get a chance to get back out there and try hard. Really really hard. Oct 14, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet. Sep 3, 2012
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Thanks guys. It's a great route. Steep, well-protected cracks like this seem to be kind of rare in New Hampshire. Sep 21, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
He and another friend of mine were telling me about it, sounds cool. Awesome job getting the second ascent. It sounded really techy and powerful. Sep 21, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Yes, Brady cleaned the crack, placed the anchors, and placed the bolt at the start. Sep 21, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
was this the route that brady outfitted? Sep 21, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
That looks and sounds so cool... nice work seeing it and on opening it up Tim... Nice work on the SA Jay, Thanks for posting it... Sep 20, 2009