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Big Papa
5.12d,
Trad,
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
FA: Equipped by Brady Libby, FA by Tim Deroehn, Sept 2009
New Hampshire
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Sundown Ledge
> Main Cliff
Description
Big Papa is a route that was hiding in plain sight until its first ascent this fall. It climbs the striking, overhanging crack just to the left of Banana Head in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff.
Start by climbing up blocky rock, clip a bolt, and do a few face moves to gain the crack. The crack is very steep, angling, and offset. These three characteristics conspire to create a physical and gymnastic crack climb.
To finish, top out on a sloping ledge and clip a two bolt anchor.
Protection
One bolt, #3 Camalot, and smaller cams.
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