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Big Papa

5.12d, Trad,  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Equipped by Brady Libby, FA by Tim Deroehn, Sept 2009
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff

Description

Big Papa is a route that was hiding in plain sight until its first ascent this fall. It climbs the striking, overhanging crack just to the left of Banana Head in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff.

Start by climbing up blocky rock, clip a bolt, and do a few face moves to gain the crack. The crack is very steep, angling, and offset. These three characteristics conspire to create a physical and gymnastic crack climb.

To finish, top out on a sloping ledge and clip a two bolt anchor.

Protection

One bolt, #3 Camalot, and smaller cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crux of Big Papa
[Hide Photo] Crux of Big Papa
The crux of Big Papa.
[Hide Photo] The crux of Big Papa.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] That looks and sounds so cool... nice work seeing it and on opening it up Tim... Nice work on the SA Jay, Thanks for posting it... Sep 20, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
[Hide Comment] was this the route that brady outfitted? Sep 21, 2009
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Yes, Brady cleaned the crack, placed the anchors, and placed the bolt at the start. Sep 21, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
[Hide Comment] He and another friend of mine were telling me about it, sounds cool. Awesome job getting the second ascent. It sounded really techy and powerful. Sep 21, 2009
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Thanks guys. It's a great route. Steep, well-protected cracks like this seem to be kind of rare in New Hampshire. Sep 21, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
 
[Hide Comment] So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet. Sep 3, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
 
[Hide Comment] CHAD TRY HARDER Dec 31, 2012